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Italian · Bologna

Passatelli in Brodo Bolognesi

Bread-and-cheese dumplings extruded directly into boiling broth through a passatello press or food mill — a speciality of Bologna and the surrounding Romagna area. The dough: stale white breadcrumbs, Parmigiano-Reggiano, eggs, nutmeg, and lemon zest — combined into a stiff paste that is pressed through the iron disk and falls into the broth as thick, ridged cylinders 3–5cm long. Cooked for 2–3 minutes, served immediately in the broth. The passatelli absorb broth rapidly and soften from firm to tender; they must be eaten within 3 minutes of cooking.

ServesFour portions
Sourced0of 6 in BC
Cook
I

The Market List

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150 g
stale white breadcrumbs
completely dry
Your own market
150 g
Parmigiano-Reggiano
finely grated
Not yet stocked in British Columbia
3
eggs
Your own market
½ tsp
nutmeg
freshly grated
Your own market
1 tsp
lemon zest
finely grated
Not yet stocked in British Columbia
1.5 litres
capon or beef broth
made the day before; brought to a rapid boil at service
Not yet stocked in British Columbia
II

The Method

1
Combine the dry breadcrumbs, grated Parmigiano-Reggiano, nutmeg, and lemon zest in a bowl. Add the eggs and work the mixture with your hands until it coheres into a stiff, compact paste — it should hold its shape when pressed and show no tendency to slump. If the paste is at all slack, it will not hold a cylindrical form after extrusion.
From the canon — Parmigiano-Reggiano is the most important cheese in Italian cooking and arguably the most technically demanding cheese produced anywhere in the world. Parmigiano-Reggiano — Production and Culinary Use →
2
Wrap the paste and rest it in the refrigerator for 30 minutes. It will firm slightly and extrude more cleanly through the disk.
3
Bring the broth to a rapid, rolling boil. This is where the dish lives or dies: the broth must be at a full boil when the passatelli enter it, so that their exterior sets on contact; a lower temperature causes them to disintegrate before they can hold their shape.
4
Hold the passatello press or large-holed food mill directly over the pot. Press the paste through the iron disk so that ridged cylinders fall straight into the boiling broth — do not shape on a board and transfer, as the cylinders adhere immediately to any surface. The cylinders should measure 3–5 cm; snap them free of the press with a knife or the back of a spatula.
5
Cook for 2–3 minutes only. The passatelli are ready when they have firmed on the outside, are tender but coherent throughout, and float near the surface of the broth. At 4 minutes they begin to collapse; remove them at the first sign of softening past tenderness.
6
Ladle immediately into warmed deep bowls, distributing the passatelli evenly and covering them generously with very hot broth. Serve at once — the eating window is 3 minutes from the bowl reaching the table.
III

Quality Hierarchy

01
Reserve — Capon broth made the day before from a whole bird; Parmigiano-Reggiano aged 30 months or more; breadcrumbs dried from a day-old Bolognese pane sciocco or equivalent unsalted white loaf.
02
Estate — Beef broth made the day before from a mix of cuts with bone; Parmigiano-Reggiano aged 24 months; home-dried stale white breadcrumbs.
03
Market — Beef broth made the same day; Parmigiano-Reggiano of standard commercial age; good-quality dried white breadcrumbs.
04
House — Commercial broth is not acceptable at any rung; below a conscientiously made same-day broth the dish cannot be prepared in good faith.
IV

Sensory Tests

◇Touch. The raw paste holds its shape under firm hand pressure and does not slump — if it yields and spreads, it is too soft to extrude cleanly.
◇Sight. The broth shows a full rolling boil across the surface before the press is brought over the pot.
◇Sight. The extruded cylinders are ridged, 3–5 cm long, and maintain their form as they fall into the broth — broken strings indicate paste that is too soft.
◇Touch. A passatello lifted on a spoon after 2–3 minutes feels firm at the exterior and yields cleanly to gentle pressure without collapsing — collapse indicates overcooking.
◇Where it lives or dies. The broth must be at a full, rapid boil the moment the passatelli are pressed in — anything less and the cylinders dissolve before their exterior can set.
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VI

What to Pour

A light, dry sparkling wine from Emilia — Pignoletto Frizzante or a dry Lambrusco di Sorbara — whose acidity and gentle effervescence cut through the richness of the broth and the Parmigiano without overriding the delicacy of the lemon-nutmeg paste.

The whole pairing
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