II
The Method
1
Combine the warm water and dried yeast in a large bowl and allow to stand for five minutes. Add the flour and salt. Mix with a spoon or by hand until a cohesive batter forms — do not overwork it. The batter must be of dropping consistency: thicker than pancake batter but pourable from a spoon without assistance. It should fall from the spoon in a slow, heavy drop. If peperoncino is used in the savoury version, stir it in at this stage.
2
Cover the bowl with a cloth and leave to rise at room temperature until the batter has doubled in volume and its surface is visibly bubbling. This is where the dish lives or dies: the CO₂ bubbles trapped in the batter are the sole source of the puffed, airy interior; a batter that has not fully proofed will produce dense, doughy fritters. The surface must show active bubbling, not merely a slight rise.
3
Pour the olive oil into a deep, heavy pan to a depth sufficient for the pettole to float freely. Heat to 175 °C. Confirm the temperature with a kitchen thermometer, or by dropping a small amount of batter into the oil: it should sink very briefly, then rise immediately and begin to sizzle steadily.
4
Drop the batter into the oil using a deep spoon — not a scoop or mould. Take a spoonful of batter and use a second spoon or a wet finger to push it off into the oil; the irregular, ragged shape produced by this action is the traditional form of the pettola. Add no more than three or four at a time. The pettola should sink momentarily, then rise to the surface and puff within seconds.
5
For stuffed pettole, drop half a spoonful of batter into the oil, lay a piece of anchovy or a pinch of chopped olive on top, then cover immediately with another half spoon of batter. The filling is enclosed by the batter as it sets in the hot oil, not wrapped before frying.
6
Fry, turning once, until the pettole are uniformly golden on all sides and have puffed to a light, hollow form. Remove with a slotted spoon and drain briefly on kitchen paper. The crust should be crisp and golden; the interior, when one is torn open, should show an open, airy crumb.
7
Serve immediately as each batch emerges from the oil. Dress the sweet version with honey — it will pool in the surface irregularities — or dust with icing sugar. Salt the savoury version at once. Pettole deflate within minutes; they are eat-as-they-come-out food.