Rillettes de Canard — Duck Rillettes

Rillettes de canard extends the rillettes tradition to the Moulard duck (Anas platyrhynchos domesticus), a fattier species prized in the Périgord and Gascony regions for foie gras production, where the legs and thighs — rich in slow-twitch myoglobin-dense fibers — become the base for this preserve. The preparation begins by curing the duck legs in 20 g kosher salt per kilogram with cracked black pepper (Piper nigrum), crushed juniper berries (Juniperus communis), and fresh thyme for 12 to 24 hours under refrigeration at 2-4°C. After rinsing and patting dry, the legs are submerged in rendered duck fat and cooked at 120°C (250°F) for 3 to 4 hours, or until a probe inserted into the thickest part of the thigh meets no resistance and the internal temperature has held at 82-85°C for at least 30 minutes, ensuring full collagen-to-gelatin conversion in the Type I connective tissue surrounding the femur. The meat is then separated from bone, skin reserved and crisped separately for garnish, and the flesh shredded while warm. The shredded meat is folded back into a portion of the strained cooking fat — typically at a ratio of 3 parts meat to 1 part fat — and seasoned with fleur de sel, a pinch of ground mace (Myristica fragrans), and a few drops of Armagnac. The result is darker and more mineral-rich than pork rillettes, with an iron-forward flavor from the myoglobin content. Packed into ramekins and sealed under 5 mm of duck fat, they hold at 2-4°C for up to 3 weeks. Serve at room temperature alongside pickled cherries, grain mustard, and sliced ficelle.