P
Italian · Campobasso, Molise
Sagnarelle al Ragù di Maiale Molisano
Sagnarelle are wide, rough-edged semolina pasta strips unique to Molise — cut thick (3–4mm), irregular in width, with a torn or ruffled edge that catches sauce. Paired with a long-cooked pork shoulder ragù enriched with peperoni cruschi (sun-dried sweet red peppers rehydrated in oil), this dish is the signature Sunday pasta of the Campobasso area. The peperoni cruschi add a sweet, slightly smoky depth unlike chilli.
I
The Market List
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For the sagnarelle dough
400 g
semolina rimacinata
Not yet stocked in British Columbia
208 ml
warm water
52% hydration of flour weight
Your own market
For the ragù
800 g
pork shoulder
cut into large chunks, not minced
Your own market
40 g
lard
Not yet stocked in British Columbia
200 ml
Montepulciano d'Abruzzo
for deglazing
Not yet stocked in British Columbia
400 g
tomato passata
Not yet stocked in British Columbia
1
onion
finely chopped
Your own market
For the peperoni cruschi
6
peperoni cruschi (sun-dried sweet red peppers)
whole, dried
Not yet stocked in British Columbia
80 ml
olive oil
warm, for rehydrating the peppers
Your own market
To finish
50 g
aged pecorino molisano
crumbled, not grated
Not yet stocked in British Columbia
II
The Method
1
Combine the semolina rimacinata with the warm water. Work the dough until it is smooth and homogeneous, then wrap and rest for 30 minutes at room temperature. The dough is ready when it no longer springs back under light pressure.
2
Roll the rested dough to a thickness of 4 mm. Cut into strips of deliberately irregular width — the rough, ruffled edge is intentional and traditional, not a fault. Set the strips aside on a semolina-dusted surface.
3
Melt the lard in a wide, heavy pot over high heat. Brown the pork shoulder chunks in batches until deeply coloured on all sides — the crust must be mahogany, not grey. Remove and set aside.
4
Reduce the heat, add the onion to the same pot and soften without colouring. Return the browned pork, deglaze with the Montepulciano d'Abruzzo and allow the alcohol to lift fully from the pan. Add the passata, bring to a gentle simmer, cover partially and braise for 2.5 hours. The ragù is ready when the pork yields to a fork and pulls into thick, textured shreds — this is where the dish lives or dies; ground pork or a shortened braise will not produce the structural depth that carries the sagnarelle.
5
Twenty minutes before the ragù finishes, submerge the peperoni cruschi in warm olive oil and leave to rehydrate for 20 minutes. They are ready when they have softened and the oil has taken on a sweet, lightly smoky perfume. Stir the peppers and their oil into the finished ragù.
From the canon — Peperoni cruschi are Basilicata's culinary treasure—dried sweet peppers (peperoni di Senise IGP) fried for seconds in hot olive oil until they puff, crisp, a… Peperoni Cruschi →
6
Bring a large pot of well-salted water to a rolling boil. Cook the sagnarelle until 2 minutes short of al dente — the strips will still feel firm at the centre when pressed between fingers.
7
Transfer the sagnarelle directly into the ragù pan with a ladleful of pasta water. Finish over medium heat, tossing and folding, until the sauce clings to every rough edge of the pasta and the water is absorbed. The surface should appear glossy and unified, not pooled or dry.
From the canon — Pasta cooking water contains dissolved starch (released from the pasta surface during boiling) at a concentration that increases with pasta-to-water ratio an… Pasta Water: Starch Concentration and Sauce Binding →
8
Plate immediately. Crumble aged pecorino molisano over the top — texture, not a smooth coating. Serve at once.
III
Quality Hierarchy
01
Reserve — Semolina rimacinata from a single Molisan stone mill; heritage-breed pork shoulder with visible intramuscular fat; peperoni cruschi sourced from a Molise or Basilicata producer; aged pecorino molisano from a named caseificio.
02
Estate — High-quality branded semolina rimacinata (e.g. De Cecco rimacinata); good free-range pork shoulder; peperoni cruschi from a reliable southern-Italian importer; pecorino molisano at minimum 6 months.
03
Market — Any fine-grade semolina rimacinata from a good supermarket; standard pork shoulder; dried sweet red peppers substituted if cruschi are unavailable, rehydrated in the same manner; pecorino romano as a substitute for molisano.
04
House — Standard semolina (not rimacinata adds roughness); bog-standard pork shoulder braised the full time; sweet dried peppers in oil from a jar; any dry, sharp sheep's-milk cheese crumbled over the top.
IV
Sensory Tests
◇Touch. Rested dough does not spring back when pressed lightly — the gluten has relaxed fully and the dough rolls without resistance.
◇Sight. Pork chunks are mahogany-brown on all sides before the braise begins — grey meat signals insufficient heat during searing.
◇Touch. After 2.5 hours, the pork shoulder yields to a fork and pulls apart in thick, sauce-laden shreds without crumbling to paste.
◇Smell. Peperoni cruschi rehydrated in warm olive oil release a sweet, lightly smoky fragrance — the signal that the oil has drawn out the peppers' character.
◇Touch. Sagnarelle pressed at the centre 2 minutes before the calculated finish still offer firm resistance — they are ready to enter the ragù pan.
◇Sight. In the finishing pan, the sauce coats every rough edge of the pasta and the surface is glossy — neither pooled with liquid nor dry and clumping.
◇Where it lives or dies. The dish lives or dies in the braise: pork shoulder, never ground meat, must cook the full 2.5 hours until it pulls into thick, sauce-binding shreds — a shortened cook or the wrong cut produces neither the texture nor the structural weight the sagnarelle require.
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VI
What to Pour
The pairing
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