Sagne 'Ncannulate con Sugo di Agnello Leccese

Mound the semolina rimacinata on a clean work surface and form a well. Pour in the lukewarm water gradually, working from the centre outward, until a shaggy dough forms. Knead firmly for 10 minutes until the dough is smooth, firm, and no longer tacky. Wrap and rest at room temperature for 30 minutes. The dough is ready when it holds a clean indent from a thumb without springing back fully.

Roll the rested dough to 3 mm thickness. Cut into strips 3–4 cm wide and 30 cm long. Working one strip at a time, lay a 6 mm wooden dowel across one end of the strip and wind the dough in an open spiral along its length, pressing the ends lightly to seal. Slide the formed sagna from the dowel. This is where the dish lives or dies: the twist must be firm enough to hold its hollow channel through drying and boiling, yet not so tight that the walls merge and the form collapses. A clean hollow visible at each end confirms success.

Arrange the formed sagne on a lightly semolina-dusted tray and dry at room temperature for 1 hour. They are ready when the outer surface is dry to the touch but the interior remains slightly pliable — they should not crack when gently flexed.

Pat the lamb shoulder dry. Heat a wide, heavy braising vessel over high heat and brown the shoulder on all sides without moving it prematurely. The surface must be deeply caramelised and release cleanly from the pan before turning — pale grey meat will yield a thin, flavourless ragù.

Add the bay leaves, the sprig of wild fennel, and the crumbled dried chilli to the pan. Pour in the tomato passata and lamb stock. Bring to a simmer, cover, and braise over the lowest possible heat for 2.5 hours. The meat is done when it yields entirely to a fork and pulls away from the bone in large, unctuous shreds.

Remove the lamb. Shred the meat from the bone and return it to the braising liquid, discarding bone and spent bay. Raise the heat and reduce the ragù, uncovered, until it coats the back of a spoon without running. The surface will appear glossy and the edges will bubble slowly rather than rapidly.

Bring a large pot of generously salted water to a full rolling boil. Add the sagne and cook until 2 minutes short of al dente — the pasta will still offer clear resistance at its centre when bitten. Reserve one ladle of the starchy cooking water before draining.

Transfer the drained sagne directly into the ragù over medium heat. Add the reserved pasta water and toss to emulsify, finishing the pasta in the sauce for the final 2 minutes. Stir in the extra wild fennel fronds off the heat. The sauce should cling to each twist and not pool at the base of the pan. Serve immediately, crumbled ricotta salata over the top.