Saltah (سلتة)

Begin 24 hours before service. Place the whole fenugreek seeds in a bowl, cover generously with cold water, and leave at room temperature for the full 24 hours. The seeds swell and release their mucilage, producing a thick, gelatinous coating. The soak is complete when the liquid is viscous and the seeds slide against each other; a watery result means the soak is insufficient and the hulba will not whip.

Place the lamb pieces in a large pot with the halved onion and cold water. Bring to a strong simmer over medium-high heat, skimming any grey foam from the surface. Add the tomatoes, the pinch of ground fenugreek, and a generous measure of salt. Reduce heat and cook at a steady, uncovered simmer until the lamb is tender and the broth is deeply coloured and well-flavoured. Taste repeatedly; the broth must be assertively seasoned — the fenugreek froth and flatbread will further dilute any salt at table. Add the potatoes in the final 30 minutes and cook until they yield completely to a knife.

While the maraq simmers, prepare the sahawiq. In a mortar or small food processor, grind the fresh Scotch bonnet chillies, garlic, and coriander with the salt to a rough, cohesive paste. The paste is ready when the colour is vivid green-red, the aroma is sharply volatile, and no large pieces remain. Set aside. Sahawiq must be made fresh; the volatile heat and fresh pepper aromatics cannot be preserved.

Stir the sahawiq through the finished maraq in the cooking vessel, combining the paste fully with the broth. Transfer the stew — lamb, potatoes, and all broth — into the communal stone, clay, or preheated cast iron vessel in which it will be served. The vessel must be brought to the table still bubbling. This is the point at which the dish lives or dies: the hulba must be whipped and applied immediately. Drain the soaked fenugreek seeds and place them in a deep bowl with the ice-cold water. Whip vigorously — by hand whisk or electric beater — until the gel forms a stiff, pale green foam that holds its shape and does not collapse when the whisk is lifted. Warm water, insufficient soaking, or delay will all prevent foam formation. The hulba is ready when it holds stiff peaks, exactly as beaten egg whites do.

Carry the hulba to the table alongside the bubbling vessel. Spoon the foam directly onto the surface of the stew and stir it through immediately — this is performed by the host or eldest present. The hulba should form a green, foamy layer across the surface. Serve at once with fresh flatbread, raw onion, and zhug on the side. The hulba deflates within minutes; eating begins immediately.