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French

Sauce Béarnaise — Tarragon and Shallot Butter Emulsion

Béarnaise is the steak-lover's hollandaise — a warm butter emulsion built on a tarragon-and-shallot-infused vinegar reduction rather than plain lemon, giving it an aromatic complexity that makes it the undisputed partner for grilled beef. The reduction is the soul of the sauce: shallots in fine brunoise, cracked white peppercorns, and a generous handful of tarragon stems (save the leaves) are simmered in white wine vinegar and dry white wine until reduced to two tablespoons of fragrant, thick liquid. This is strained, cooled slightly, and whisked with egg yolks over a bain-marie at 55-62°C. The technique from this point mirrors hollandaise exactly: clarified butter in a thin stream, whisking constantly, until the sauce reaches a thick, spoonable consistency. The reserved tarragon leaves, cut to a fine chiffonade, are folded in at the end with a pinch of chervil. The finished béarnaise should hold its shape on a spoon, taste of tarragon and vinegar with rich butter in the background, and carry a gentle warmth from the white pepper. The reduction must be strong enough to assert itself through the butter — if the sauce tastes primarily of butter, the reduction was too dilute. Béarnaise tolerates no reheating — it is made à la minute and served immediately. The bain-marie temperature is critical: below 55°C the yolks will not thicken; above 65°C they scramble into an irreversible curdle.

ServesFour portions
Sourced1of 8 in BC
Cook
I

The Market List

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For the reduction
2
shallots
fine brunoise
Your own market
1 tsp
white peppercorns
cracked
Not yet stocked in British Columbia
1 small bunch
fresh tarragon
stems reserved for reduction, leaves reserved for finishing
60 ml
white wine vinegar
Your own market
60 ml
dry white wine
Not yet stocked in British Columbia
For the emulsion
3
egg yolks
Your own market
250 g
clarified butter
warm
Your own market
To finish
1 pinch
chervil
dried or fresh as available
Not yet stocked in British Columbia

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II

The Method

1
Combine the shallot brunoise, cracked white peppercorns, tarragon stems, white wine vinegar, and dry white wine in a small saucepan. Bring to a simmer over medium heat and reduce until only two tablespoons of thick, fragrant liquid remain. Strain through a fine sieve, pressing the solids, and allow to cool slightly. The reduction is ready when it is dense and strongly aromatic — thin or pallid liquid is insufficient.
From the canon — Reduction is the technique of simmering a liquid uncovered to evaporate water and concentrate flavour, body, colour, and viscosity. Reduction — Concentrating Flavour Through Evaporation →
2
Transfer the strained reduction to a heatproof bowl. Add the egg yolks and set the bowl over a bain-marie held strictly between 55 °C and 62 °C. Whisk constantly. This is where the dish lives or dies: below 55 °C the yolks will not thicken; above 65 °C they scramble into an irreversible curdle. The mixture is ready when it falls from the whisk in thick, ribbon-like folds that hold their shape briefly on the surface.
3
Remove the bowl from the bain-marie. Begin adding the warm clarified butter in the thinnest possible stream, whisking without pause. Do not rush the addition. The sauce is ready when it reaches a thick, spoonable consistency that holds its shape on a spoon and does not immediately run.
From the canon — Whole butter contains three components: water (16%), milk solids (4%), and fat (80%). Clarified Butter (Beurre Clarifié) and Brown Butter (Beurre Noisette) →
4
Taste the sauce. It must assert tarragon and vinegar clearly, with rich butter in the background. If the sauce tastes primarily of butter, the reduction was too dilute and the balance cannot be corrected at this stage. A gentle warmth from the white pepper should be perceptible on the finish.
5
Fold in the reserved tarragon leaves, cut to a fine chiffonade, and the pinch of chervil. Serve immediately. Béarnaise tolerates no reheating and will thin and eventually break if held on the bain-marie beyond 20–30 minutes. It is made à la minute.
III

Quality Hierarchy

01
Reserve — Tarragon vinegar made in-house — fresh tarragon steeped in white wine vinegar for two weeks — used in place of plain white wine vinegar; it amplifies the herb character through every layer of the sauce. The tarragon quantity doubled in the reduction and strained out for a deeper infusion.
02
Estate — Fresh tarragon throughout, including an abundant chiffonade folded at the end; hand-clarified butter from a known dairy; shallots cut to a precise fine brunoise for an even, clean reduction.
03
Market — Fresh tarragon for the finishing chiffonade — the entry is explicit that dried tarragon in the final addition produces a fundamentally different and inferior flavour. Good-quality white wine vinegar and a clean dry white wine.
04
House — Standard white wine vinegar, commercially clarified butter or beurre nooissette strained clean, and the minimum tarragon to make the flavour legible. The sauce remains correct if the bain-marie temperature is controlled and the reduction is sufficiently reduced.
IV

Sensory Tests

◇Smell. The strained reduction smells dense and sharply aromatic of tarragon and vinegar; any watery or faint aroma signals insufficient reduction.
◇Sight. The yolk-reduction mixture falls from the whisk in thick ribbons that hold their shape briefly on the surface before dissolving — the classic nappe.
◇Touch. The finished sauce holds its shape on a spoon and does not run immediately when tilted — it is thick and spoonable, not pourable.
◇Sight. The sauce is an even, pale gold; any graininess or visible curdling indicates overheating of the bain-marie beyond 65 °C.
◇Where it lives or dies. The bain-marie temperature must be held between 55 °C and 62 °C throughout the yolk-whisking stage — outside this range the emulsion either fails to form or curdles beyond rescue.
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VI

What to Pour

The pairing
El Silencio Espadin Mezcal
El Silencio Mezcal · Oaxaca — Mezcal
Not yet stocked in British Columbia
Agave spirit
From British Columbia

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The whole pairing
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Sourced through Provenance

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