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Italian · Bari, Puglia

Sporcamuss Pugliesi con Crema Pasticcera e Miele

Literally 'dirty mouth' — sfoglia di pasta sfoglia (pre-baked puff pastry sheets) layered with crema pasticcera (vanilla pastry cream) and fried in olive oil until the pastry blisters and the cream begins to caramelise at the edges. Eaten standing, from paper, at the bakery — the cream inevitably escapes and 'dirties' the mouth. A Pugliese street pastry specific to the Altamura and Bari areas, made with the local olive oil rather than butter for frying, giving a distinctively different crispness.

ServesFour portions (eight sporcamuss)
Sourced0of 8 in BC
Cook
I

The Market List

The benchmark for each ingredient, and who stocks it near you. Tap a stockist to go straight to the product.

For the sfoglia
500 g
puff pastry
rolled thin, cut into 16 squares of equal size
Not yet stocked in British Columbia
For the crema pasticcera
500 ml
whole milk
Your own market
120 g
caster sugar
Your own market
4
egg yolks
Your own market
50 g
plain flour
Not yet stocked in British Columbia
1
vanilla pod
split and scraped
Not yet stocked in British Columbia
For frying
1 litre
olive oil
Pugliese extra-virgin preferred; sufficient depth to submerge the pastry
Your own market
To finish
30 g
icing sugar
for immediate dusting at service
Your own market
II

The Method

1
Pre-heat the oven to 200 °C. Lay the puff pastry squares on a lined baking sheet and bake until very puffed and deep golden. Remove and cool completely on a rack. The squares must be fully cold and rigid before assembly — any residual warmth will soften the cream on contact.
2
Prepare the crema pasticcera: whisk the egg yolks and sugar to a pale ribbon, then whisk in the flour. Bring the milk and vanilla pod to a bare simmer, remove the pod, and pour the hot milk over the yolk mixture in a steady stream, whisking constantly. Return the mixture to the pan over medium heat and stir continuously until the cream thickens decisively and pulls away from the sides of the pan. The cream must be made noticeably thicker than for a standard tart filling — it must hold a firm shape when cold, not run. Transfer to a shallow tray, press clingfilm directly onto the surface and refrigerate until fully cold and set.
3
This is where the dish lives or dies. Immediately before frying — and not a moment sooner — place a thick, cold layer of pastry cream onto one pastry square and press a second square firmly on top to form a sandwich. The cream must be cold and the pastry pre-assembled only at the last possible instant: if the cream is warm it escapes into the frying oil; if the sandwich sits and rests, the pastry absorbs moisture from the cream and the crunch is irretrievably lost.
4
Heat the olive oil in a deep, wide pan to 175 °C, verified with a thermometer. Lower each sporcamuss into the oil and submerge it immediately. Fry until the pastry blisters, opens at the layers, and the cream begins to caramelise visibly at the exposed edges. The surface should be deeply golden. Lift and drain briefly.
5
Dust with icing sugar the instant the sporcamuss leaves the oil, before the surface cools. Serve immediately — on paper, standing up, in the Bari manner. The cream will escape. That is correct.
III

Quality Hierarchy

01
Reserve — Handmade puff pastry rolled to specification; crema pasticcera made from single-breed whole milk and a fresh Madagascan vanilla pod; Pugliese DOP extra-virgin olive oil of the current harvest for frying.
02
Estate — High-quality all-butter puff pastry, preferably from a local pastry supplier; pastry cream made with good free-range egg yolks and whole vanilla pod; a fruity, low-acidity Pugliese extra-virgin olive oil.
03
Market — Chilled all-butter puff pastry from a reliable brand; pastry cream made with vanilla extract in place of the pod; a sound extra-virgin olive oil with sufficient body to fry cleanly.
04
House — Supermarket ready-rolled puff pastry; vanilla-flavoured pastry cream from a prepared mix; a light olive oil. Sunflower oil must not be substituted — the characteristic flavour of the dish depends on olive oil.
IV

Sensory Tests

◇Sight. Pre-baked pastry squares are very puffed with a deep, even golden colour and no pale or doughy patches before cooling.
◇Touch. Cold crema pasticcera holds a clean edge when scooped and does not slump or run — it is firm enough to resist the heat of the oil for the duration of frying.
◇Sight. In the frying oil, the pastry layers visibly open and blister, and the cream at the exposed edges turns amber and begins to caramelise.
◇Smell. The warm olive oil carries a faint nutty, caramel note as the cream edges colour — the signal that the sporcamuss is ready to lift.
◇Where it lives or dies. The sandwich of cold cream between cold pastry squares must be assembled at the very last instant before entering the oil — warm cream or a rested assembly destroys the dish at its foundation.
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VI

What to Pour

The pairing
Pieropan Soave Classico Calvarino
Pieropan · Soave DOC
Not yet stocked in British Columbia
Wine
From British Columbia
Fort Berens Riesling
Fort Berens Estate Winery · Lillooet
Not yet stocked in British Columbia
Wine
Without alcohol
GT's Synergy Organic Kombucha — Gingerade
Not yet stocked in British Columbia
Non-alcoholic

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The whole pairing
Pillar VII
Origin and lineage are part of membership.
Where the dish comes from and how it came to be — on every recipe.
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