Steamed Glutinous Rice Lotus Parcels (He Ye Fan / 荷叶饭)

Soak the glutinous rice in cold water for a minimum of 4 hours, so the grains hydrate evenly and will steam through to the centre without turning to paste at the outside. Drain thoroughly, then transfer to a steamer lined with muslin or parchment and steam over vigorously boiling water for 15 minutes. Tip the parboiled rice into a bowl and toss immediately with soy sauce and sesame oil until every grain is coated and the rice is an even pale amber, working quickly while the rice is still hot so the grains drink in the seasoning rather than letting it pool at the bottom of the bowl.

Submerge the dried lotus leaves in very hot water for 30 minutes, weighting them down if necessary, so they soften fully and become pliable enough to fold without splitting and releasing the parcel mid-steam. They are ready when fully pliable and dark olive-green throughout, with no stiff or brittle areas. Pat dry.

In a hot wok or frying pan, stir-fry the pork belly until coloured and beginning to render, so the fat runs and carries flavour through the rest of the filling rather than sitting raw and greasy inside the parcel. Add the lap cheong, dried shrimp, and sliced mushrooms, tossing until the sausage is glossy and the mixture is fragrant with pork fat and cured meat. Remove from the heat — the filling must be fully pre-cooked, as it will not cook further inside the sealed parcel.

Lay one lotus leaf on the work surface and place a layer of seasoned rice at the centre, forming a rough rectangle; spoon a portion of filling over the rice, then press one salted duck egg yolk into the centre of the filling so it sits buried and will baste the surrounding rice with its rich, saline fat as the parcel steams. Cover with a second layer of rice, enclosing the filling entirely. This is where the dish lives or dies: fold the near edge of the leaf up over the rice, fold in the sides, then roll forward firmly — any tear or loose seam will allow steam to escape and the rice will dry and fail to absorb the filling's flavours — securing with kitchen twine if needed; repeat for each parcel.

Arrange the parcels seam-side down in a steamer over vigorously boiling water, seam-side down so the weight of the parcel holds the folds shut and the seal tightens rather than opening as steam builds. Cover and steam for 30 to 45 minutes, maintaining a constant vigorous boil and replenishing water as needed. The parcels are done when the lotus leaf has darkened further and emits a strong herbal, grassy perfume that permeates the kitchen.

Remove the parcels from the steamer and rest for 5 minutes before unwrapping, so the rice has time to settle and reabsorb any moisture that has gathered against the leaf, giving a cohesive, yielding texture rather than a loose, steaming heap. The exterior of each parcel will be very firm to the touch; after resting, the parcel softens slightly and the rice settles. Unwrap at the table.