Stir-Fried Water Spinach with Fermented Tofu (炒通菜 Chao Tong Cai)
Chao tong cai (炒通菜, stir-fried water spinach, also called morning glory or kong xin cai, 空心菜) with fermented tofu is one of the most popular and deceptively simple vegetable preparations in Cantonese cooking. The water spinach's hollow stems retain a pleasant snap while the leaves wilt quickly; the fermented bean curd (doufu ru) provides a rich, creamy, intensely savoury sauce that coats every leaf and stem without being heavy. It is a dish that tests wok temperature management — the water spinach must hit a screaming-hot wok to achieve the flash-wilt that preserves its texture.
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The Method
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What to Pour
A lightly chilled, off-dry Alsatian Pinot Gris or a Shaoxing rice wine served at room temperature; the wine's gentle oxidative character and residual sugar bridge the salt-funk of the fermented curd without overwhelming the vegetable's delicacy.
The whole pairing