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Italian · Bologna

Stuffed Pasta: Tortellini and Cappelletti

Emilian stuffed pasta — tortellini (from Bologna), cappelletti (from Romagna and Ferrara), tortelloni (the larger form) — is the highest expression of the Italian pasta tradition and the preparation for which Hazan has the deepest reverence. The filling must be made fresh, the pasta must be thin enough to be translucent, the shapes must be sealed perfectly (a leak means the filling escapes into the cooking water), and the pasta must be cooked in a genuine brodo — not water, not bought stock.

ServesFour portions (as a first course in brodo)
Sourced0of 9 in BC
Cook
I

The Market List

The benchmark for each ingredient, and who stocks it near you. Tap a stockist to go straight to the product.

For the filling
100 g
prosciutto di Parma
in a single slice, not pre-sliced
Not yet stocked in British Columbia
100 g
Bolognese mortadella
not mass-market variety; in a single piece
Not yet stocked in British Columbia
100 g
pork loin
briefly sautéed, then cooled completely
Your own market
60 g
Parmigiano Reggiano
finely grated
Your own market
2
egg yolks
Your own market
¼ tsp
nutmeg
freshly grated; clearly perceptible but not dominant
Your own market
For the pasta dough
200 g
Italian 00 flour
Your own market
2
eggs
at room temperature
Your own market
For cooking and serving
2 l
genuine meat brodo
made from scratch; not water, not bought stock — must remain clear throughout cooking
Not yet stocked in British Columbia
II

The Method

1
Sauté the pork loin briefly over medium heat until just cooked through. Allow to cool completely. Combine the cooled pork, prosciutto di Parma, and mortadella and grind them together to a smooth paste — no chunks are permissible. Work in the grated Parmigiano Reggiano, egg yolks, and freshly grated nutmeg. The filling is ready when it holds a sphere no larger than a hazelnut and the texture is fine enough to compress cleanly without crumbling.
From the canon — Prosciutto di Parma is produced exclusively from the rear leg of Sus scrofa domesticus pigs raised in ten specified Italian regions and fed on a diet that in… Prosciutto di Parma — Dry-Curing Technique →
2
Make the pasta dough from the flour and eggs and rest it, covered, for 30 minutes. Working one small section at a time — keeping the remainder covered — roll the dough to the second-to-last machine setting, or hand-roll to near-translucency. Cut immediately into 3–4 cm squares; the dough dries within minutes and will not seal cleanly once dry. Hold one square to the light: the pasta is sufficiently thin when the shadow of your hand is visible through it. If it is opaque, it is too thick.
3
Place a filling ball — hazelnut-sized — slightly off-centre on each square, keeping the filling at least 3 mm from every edge. No filling may touch the edge. Moisten the pasta edges with a fingertip dampened with water immediately before pressing — the moisture activates the dough's starch to strengthen the bond. Fold the square corner-to-corner to form a triangle. Press firmly from the filling outward, expelling all air, until the two layers feel like a single bonded sheet rather than two separate ones. This is where the dish lives or dies: press each sealed edge gently between thumb and index finger — there must be no give, no movement, no separation. Any tortellino that yields at the seal will open in the cooking water; re-seal it immediately or discard it.
4
Wrap the sealed triangle around the tip of the index finger with the pointed tip uppermost. Bring the two base corners around the finger and press them firmly together to form the characteristic ring. The join at the base must be as firm as the original triangle seal.
5
Bring the brodo to a steady, rolling simmer in a pot large enough for the tortellini to swim freely without crowding — insufficient liquid causes sticking and breaking. Lower the tortellini into the broth. From the moment they float, cook for 3–5 minutes. The brodo must remain clear throughout. A broth that clouds with filling particles is a visible sign of seal failure.
6
Ladle the tortellini into warmed bowls with an ample measure of the clear brodo. The pasta must be served immediately in the broth — not drained, not sauced. The dish is ready when the broth is clear and the pasta at the sealed edges is as tender as at the thinner, unfilled sections.
III

Quality Hierarchy

01
Reserve — Prosciutto di Parma aged 24 months or more, Bolognese mortadella sourced from a specialist Emilian producer, Parmigiano Reggiano of 30-month stagionatura, and a brodo made from a whole capon or mixed meats with marrow bone.
02
Estate — Good-quality prosciutto di Parma from a reputable salumeria, artisan mortadella from a delicatessen that carries the Bolognese product specifically, 24-month Parmigiano Reggiano, and a brodo made from a whole free-range chicken with veal.
03
Market — Supermarket prosciutto di Parma (acceptable), the best mortadella available in the market, Parmigiano Reggiano from the deli counter rather than pre-grated, and a carefully made homemade chicken brodo.
04
House — Any prosciutto crudo, standard mortadella, pre-grated hard cheese, and a light homemade stock: the filling and the shape remain honest, but the full expression of the dish is diminished at every rung.
IV

Sensory Tests

◇Sight. Hold a completed tortellino to the light: the filling must be visible as a slightly darker shadow through the pasta sheet. An opaque pasta wall indicates excessive thickness.
◇Touch. Press each sealed edge gently between thumb and index finger: there must be no give and no movement — the two layers must feel entirely bonded.
◇Sight. The brodo must remain clear throughout cooking. Any cloudiness indicates that a seal has failed and filling is dispersing into the liquid.
◇Where it lives or dies. The seal on each tortellino decides the dish: filling that touches the edge, a seal made without moisture, or pressure that leaves any give will open in the cooking water and cloud the brodo irreparably.
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VI

What to Pour

When tortellini are served in brodo, Hazan's flavour logic is that the broth is the medium and must not be competed with. A light, dry sparkling wine from Emilia — Lambrusco secco — cuts the richness of the filling without obscuring the clarity of the broth. A still, dry Albana di Romagna serves the same function for those who prefer a still wine.

The whole pairing
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