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Japanese · Japan

Sunomono and Aemono: Japanese Vinegar and Dressed Salads

Sunomono (vinegared things) and aemono (dressed things) together form the Japanese approach to cold composed salad-like preparations — a distinct culinary category that bridges the sensibilities of European salads and the textural sophistication of Japanese nimono, using dressings that range from the tartly simple (sanbaizu: rice vinegar, mirin, soy) to the richly complex (goma-ae: sesame paste, soy, mirin, sugar dressing). The philosophical distinction between sunomono and aemono is a matter of primary flavour driver: sunomono are predominantly characterised by the acidic dimension of rice vinegar, though balanced by sweetness; aemono are characterised by a richer, coatingly thick dressing — most commonly sesame (goma-ae), tofu (shira-ae, a white tofu-sesame dressing), or miso (nuta, a sweet miso and vinegar dressing). In both categories, the precise moment of dressing application is critical to texture management: sunomono ingredients (typically cucumber, wakame, crab, octopus, or citrus fruit) should be dressed just before service to maintain their texture and prevent moisture dilution of the dressing; aemono, particularly goma-ae, are tossed with the dressing just before service as the thick sesame paste continues to draw moisture from the vegetables. Sanbaizu (three-part vinegar: equal parts rice vinegar, mirin, soy sauce, optionally adjusted with dashi) is the foundational dressing for sunomono, and its precise balance is a reflection of the cook's calibration of the fundamental sour-sweet-savoury axis. Tosazu (sanbaizu with added katsuobushi infusion) produces a richer, more umami-forward version used with richer ingredients like octopus or thick-sliced cucumber.

ServesFour portions
Sourced4of 16 in BC
Cook
I

The Market List

The benchmark for each ingredient, and who stocks it near you. Tap a stockist to go straight to the product.

For the cucumber sunomono
2
Japanese cucumbers
thinly sliced
Your own market
1 tsp
fine salt
for wilting
Your own market
For the sanbaizu
60 ml
rice vinegar
Your own market
60 ml
mirin
Not yet stocked in British Columbia
60 ml
dashi
optional, for rounding
Not yet stocked in British Columbia
For the goma-ae dressing
80 g
white sesame seeds
toasted, then ground to a smooth paste
Not yet stocked in British Columbia
30 ml
mirin
Not yet stocked in British Columbia
1 tsp
sugar
Your own market
For the shira-ae dressing (optional variation)
300 g
firm tofu
excess water pressed out until approximately 60% of moisture is removed
30 ml
mirin
Not yet stocked in British Columbia
20 g
white sesame paste
Not yet stocked in British Columbia
For the sunomono garnish
20 g
dried wakame
rehydrated, squeezed dry
Not yet stocked in British Columbia
For the tosazu variation
10 g
katsuobushi
steeped in warm sanbaizu for 10 minutes, then strained
Origin · United StatesNot yet stocked in British Columbia

Each tap is counted, so the stockist sees the demand Provenance sends them.

II

The Method

1
Slice the cucumbers thinly and toss with fine salt. Leave for 10 minutes, then squeeze firmly in the hands until substantially dry. Rehydrate wakame, squeeze dry by the same method. Both ingredients must yield no visible pooling moisture when pressed — any residual water will dilute the sanbaizu beyond recovery.
2
Combine rice vinegar, mirin, and soy sauce in equal parts (1:1:1) to produce the sanbaizu. If using dashi, add it now and stir. Taste: the dressing must register as distinctly tart but with a clear sweet-savoury balance. The soy should be perceptible but not dominant; if the colour is dark amber rather than pale gold, soy has been over-measured and will overwhelm delicate ingredients.
3
For goma-ae, grind toasted sesame seeds in a suribachi or food processor to a smooth, cohesive paste — this is where the dish lives or dies. A partially ground, gritty paste cannot be recovered by further mixing and will produce an unpleasant mouthfeel against the vegetables. The paste is ready when it holds together as a dense, aromatic mass with no discrete whole seeds visible. Combine with soy sauce, mirin, and sugar; stir until uniform.
4
For shira-ae, press the tofu aggressively — wrapped in a cloth and weighted — until approximately 60% of its moisture is expelled. The block should feel firm and dry to the press rather than yielding and wet. Blend or pass through a sieve to a smooth cream, then combine with soy sauce, mirin, and sesame paste.
5
For tosazu (the richer sunomono dressing suited to octopus or thick cucumber), steep katsuobushi in the warm, freshly made sanbaizu for 10 minutes off the heat. Strain through a fine sieve, pressing the flakes. The liquid should carry a distinct smoky, marine depth beneath the rice vinegar brightness.
6
Dress sunomono ingredients (cucumber, wakame, seafood) immediately before service: combine the squeezed ingredients with sanbaizu or tosazu in a bowl and transfer at once to serving vessels. Dress aemono vegetables — which must be at room temperature, not cold, so that the sesame paste coats evenly rather than seizing — with goma-ae or shira-ae at the same last moment. The dish is ready when each piece is visibly coated and the dressing clings rather than pools at the base of the bowl.
III

Quality Hierarchy

01
Reserve — Handmade artisan rice vinegar; single-origin white sesame ground in a suribachi to order; freshly drawn dashi from first-grade katsuobushi and kombu; seasonal Japanese cucumber at peak firmness.
02
Estate — Good-quality bottled rice vinegar (not seasoned); packaged sesame paste of consistent grind; dashi made from katsuobushi and kombu at home; Japanese or Persian cucumber.
03
Market — Supermarket rice vinegar; tahini used in place of ground sesame (smoother but with a different flavour register); instant dashi (dashi-no-moto); standard English cucumber, well squeezed.
04
House — Rice vinegar and equal-part soy and mirin alone, without dashi; pre-ground sesame paste from a jar; wakame from dried packet; cucumber without pre-salting — acceptable only as a rapid assembly.
IV

Sensory Tests

◇Touch. Salted cucumber and wakame yield no pooling moisture when firmly pressed — the squeeze is complete.
◇Sight. Ground sesame paste holds as a dense, uniform mass with no visible whole seeds — the grind is sufficient.
◇Touch. Pressed tofu for shira-ae feels firm and does not yield further moisture under a steady squeeze — it is ready to blend.
◇Taste. Sanbaizu registers as distinctly tart, clearly sweet, and perceptibly savoury in equal measure, with no single axis dominating — the balance is correct.
◇Sight. After dressing, each piece of vegetable or seafood is visibly coated and the dressing clings rather than pooling at the base of the serving bowl — dress and serve immediately.
◇Where it lives or dies. The dish lives or dies in the grinding of sesame for goma-ae: a smooth, cohesive paste produces an evenly coating, creamy aemono; a partially ground, gritty paste cannot be corrected and ruins the mouthfeel of the finished dish.
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VI

What to Pour

The pairing
Bushmills Malt 10 Year Old
Old Bushmills Distillery · County Antrim — Bushmills Distillery
Not yet stocked in British Columbia
Whisky
From British Columbia
Fort Berens Riesling
Fort Berens Estate Winery · Lillooet
Not yet stocked in British Columbia
Wine
Without alcohol

No pour without alcohol holds against this yet.

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The whole pairing
Pillar VII
Origin and lineage are part of membership.
Where the dish comes from and how it came to be — on every recipe.
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