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Japanese · Hokkaido

Tara Chiri: Japanese Salt Cod Hot Pot and the Winter Culture of White Fish Nabe

Tara chiri (鱈ちり) — cod hot pot — is one of Japan's essential winter nabe preparations, a counterpoint to the rich, meat-based nabe traditions of sukiyaki and shabu-shabu. Tara (cod, primarily Gadus macrocephalus — Pacific cod, or mara — walleye pollock) is Japan's most important winter white fish, and the chiri hot pot format ('chiri' refers to the sound of cooking fish in near-boiling water) showcases its delicate, flaky flesh in the simplest possible context: simmered in a clean kombu broth with seasonal winter vegetables. Tara chiri belongs to the broader category of yose nabe (寄せ鍋 — gathered nabe) preparations where multiple ingredients are arranged around a central pot and cooked progressively, but it distinguishes itself through its emphasis on the collagen-rich skin and the shirako (cod milt — sperm sac) that accompanies fresh Pacific cod in winter and is considered a winter delicacy of considerable prestige. Shirako (白子, also called tachi in Hokkaido) is pale white, custard-textured, and extraordinarily mild in flavour — a clean creaminess with a faint oceanic sweetness — and is added to the tara chiri pot in the final minutes of cooking as it requires only brief heat exposure to set from liquid to a barely firm, silken texture. The progression of a tara chiri service: the kombu broth is brought to temperature, vegetables (hakusai Chinese cabbage, tofu, enokitake, mitsuba) are added in order of cooking time, then the cod pieces (with skin on) are nestled in the liquid, and finally the shirako — if in season — is floated on the surface to cook gently. The dipping sauce for tara chiri is ponzu (traditionally yuzu-based), with momiji oroshi and negi as condiments, completing the citrus-savoury-fresh flavour framework that defines the dish.

ServesFour portions
Sourced1of 13 in BC
Cook
I

The Market List

The benchmark for each ingredient, and who stocks it near you. Tap a stockist to go straight to the product.

800 g
Pacific cod (tara), skin on
cut into medium-thick pieces; blotted dry before use
Not yet stocked in British Columbia
200 g
shirako (cod milt)
fresh, firm, white, unbroken sacs; in season November–February
Not yet stocked in British Columbia
20 g
kombu
wiped; do not wash
Not yet stocked in British Columbia
1.5 litres
cold water
Your own market
300 g
hakusai (Chinese cabbage)
cut into broad pieces
Not yet stocked in British Columbia
300 g
firm tofu
cut into cubes
100 g
enokitake mushrooms
roots trimmed, clusters separated
Your own market
30 g
mitsuba (Japanese parsley)
roughly cut
Not yet stocked in British Columbia
For the dipping and condiments
120 ml
ponzu (yuzu-based)
served at the table
Not yet stocked in British Columbia
4 tsp
momiji oroshi (grated daikon with chilli)
served at the table
Not yet stocked in British Columbia
2
negi (Japanese long onion)
finely sliced; served at the table
Not yet stocked in British Columbia
For the zosui finale
150 g
small-grain rice
uncooked; added to the residual broth after the main course
Not yet stocked in British Columbia
2
eggs
beaten; stirred in at the close of the zosui
Your own market

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II

The Method

1
Combine the kombu and cold water in the nabe pot (or a wide, shallow pot suitable for table service). Bring over medium-low heat, removing the kombu just before the water reaches a full boil. The broth should be faintly oceanic in aroma and perfectly clear.
2
Add the hakusai and tofu to the just-simmering kombu broth. Maintain a gentle simmer — never a rolling boil — for 10 to 12 minutes. The cabbage is ready when the thickest stems yield without resistance to a chopstick.
From the canon — Hakusai (白菜, napa/Chinese cabbage) is Japan's most essential winter vegetable — a large, elongated, tightly-packed cabbage with pale yellow-green leaves and … Hakusai — Napa Cabbage in Japanese Cooking →
3
Nestle the cod pieces, skin side down, into the broth among the vegetables. Simmer gently for 5 minutes. This is where the dish lives or dies: Pacific cod is delicate — the broth must remain at a bare simmer throughout, and the skin must stay on to contribute its collagen to the liquid; over-heat or premature skin removal destroys both the texture of the flesh and the character of the broth.
4
Add the enokitake and mitsuba. Simmer for 2 minutes only. The enokitake should be just wilted and the mitsuba barely softened — both are done when they have collapsed slightly without losing their colour.
5
Float the shirako gently on the surface of the barely simmering broth. Allow 2 to 3 minutes of undisturbed, gentle heat. The shirako is set when the exterior has firmed from translucent to an opaque, pale white, while the interior retains a just-silken, custard-like give when pressed lightly.
From the canon — Shirako (literally 'white children') refers to the soft roe (milt, or fish sperm) of various fish — principally fugu (puffer fish), cod (tara), and anglerfis… Shirako — Cod Milt and Japanese Delicacy Culture →
6
Bring the pot to the table. Each diner dips pieces of cod, shirako, and vegetables into ponzu, dressing with momiji oroshi and sliced negi to taste. The yuzu acid in the ponzu cuts the richness of the collagen and milt; the balance of salt, citrus, and heat from the condiments governs the final flavour.
7
For the zosui finale: once the main ingredients are consumed, add the small-grain rice to the collagen-enriched broth remaining in the pot. Simmer gently until the rice has just bloomed — swollen and tender at the surface but retaining a slight centre — then stir in the beaten egg in a slow stream. The broth at this stage should be glossy, faintly golden, and thickened with dissolved cod collagen; this is considered equal in pleasure to the main course.
III

Quality Hierarchy

01
Reserve — Wild Pacific cod (Gadus macrocephalus) sourced fresh from Hokkaido November through February, with shirako from the same catch — firm, white, unbroken sacs from a Japanese fishmonger; kombu from Rishiri or Rausu.
02
Estate — Fresh Pacific cod (skin on) from a specialist fishmonger with reliable cold-chain provenance; shirako sourced separately and in season; good commercial yuzu ponzu.
03
Market — Fresh skin-on cod fillet from a well-stocked fish counter; shirako omitted or substituted with a second portion of cod; standard kombu from an Asian grocery; bottled ponzu.
04
House — Skin-on cod from a supermarket fish counter; walleye pollock (mara) as a substitute where Pacific cod is unavailable; kombu dashi from granules; pre-made ponzu dipping sauce.
IV

Sensory Tests

◇Smell. The kombu broth is ready when it gives a clean, faint oceanic aroma with no fishiness — kombu removed before a full boil preserves this clarity.
◇Touch. Hakusai stalks yield without resistance to a chopstick at 10 to 12 minutes of gentle simmering.
◇Sight. Cod is done after 5 minutes of bare simmering when the flesh has turned opaque through to the centre and the skin has begun to loosen and turn translucent-gelatinous.
◇Touch. Shirako is set when its exterior is firm and opaque white but the interior still yields with a silken, custard-like give under the lightest pressure — 2 to 3 minutes at a bare simmer.
◇Sight. The zosui broth is ready to receive the egg when it is glossy, faintly thickened, and golden with dissolved cod collagen.
◇Where it lives or dies. The cod must simmer in a bare, unbroken gentle heat with its skin on — the moment the broth boils or the skin is removed, the delicate flesh disintegrates and the broth loses its collagen character.
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VI

What to Pour

The pairing
Aramasa No. 6 X-type Junmai Ginjo
Aramasa Shuzo · Yamagata
Not yet stocked in British Columbia
Sake
From British Columbia
Fort Berens Riesling
Fort Berens Estate Winery · Lillooet
Not yet stocked in British Columbia
Wine
Without alcohol
GT's Synergy Organic Kombucha — Gingerade
Not yet stocked in British Columbia
Non-alcoholic

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The whole pairing
Pillar VII
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Sourced through Provenance

The hands behind the plate.