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Mexican · Mesoamerica

The Char (Cross-Cultural)

Char — deliberate, controlled burning of a surface to create flavour — is a technique that appears as both accident and intention across every fire-using culture. The Maillard reaction and caramelisation both produce char-adjacent flavour compounds, but true char goes further: it involves partial combustion that creates a layer of carbon on the surface, which carries bitter, smoky, and intensely savoury flavour compounds that cannot be produced by gentler cooking methods. Char appears deliberately across food cultures: the charred chilli (essential to mole negro, where the dried chilli is burnt almost black before reconstitution), the charred baba ghanoush aubergine (the smoke is the point, not a mistake), the blackened Cajun fish (deliberately charred in cast iron), the yakitori char on chicken skin, the jerk chicken blackened outside over allspice wood, the Afghan/Lebanese tandoor bread char on the domed oven wall, the roasted Chinese duck skin that achieves a mahogany-black at certain points. The technique of char is about control: enough to produce the flavour compounds, not enough to produce bitterness that overwhelms. Char on a chilli skin adds depth; char throughout a chilli adds only bitterness. The line between correct char and overcooking is measured in seconds over high heat, in degrees of colour, in the smell coming off the fire. Char also appears in liquid form — the dark caramelised fond at the bottom of a pan after searing protein is solid char-adjacent compound dissolved in fat. Properly deglazed, this becomes the most flavourful part of any pan sauce.

‹Swipe for the next dish›
Serves4
Total40 min
Sourced1of 11 in BC
Cook
I

The Market List

The benchmark for each ingredient, and who stocks it near you. Tap a stockist to go straight to the product.

600 g
beef strip loin
2 steaks, 300 g each, 4 cm thick, room temperature
Not yet stocked in British Columbia
8 g
sea salt
Maldon
Your own market
3 g
cracked black pepper
Tellicherry
Your own market
60 ml
extra virgin olive oil
Arbequina
Your own market
40 g
unsalted butter
cultured European style
Your own market
4 cloves
garlic
unpeeled, smashed
Your own market
8 sprigs
thyme
fresh
4 sprigs
rosemary
fresh
Your own market
30 g
shallots
1 medium, sliced thin
Your own market
15 ml
red wine vinegar
aged
Your own market
120 ml
beef stock
homemade, reduced
Your own market

Each tap is counted, so the stockist sees the demand Provenance sends them.

II

The Method

1
Pat beef steaks dry with paper towels; season generously with Maldon salt and cracked pepper on both sides 15 minutes before cooking.
2
Heat olive oil in a cast-iron skillet over high heat until wisps of smoke appear; place steaks in pan and sear without moving for 4 minutes until crust forms.
3
Flip steaks; add butter, garlic, thyme, and rosemary to pan. Tilt pan and baste steaks continuously with foaming butter for 3 minutes to medium-rare (internal temperature 52–54°C).
4
Transfer steaks to a warm plate; rest for 8 minutes tented loosely with foil.
5
Drain all but 10 ml fat from pan; add sliced shallots and sauté over medium heat for 2 minutes until softened.
6
Deglaze pan with red wine vinegar, scraping up fond; pour in beef stock and simmer for 3 minutes to concentrate.
7
Whisk in 10 g cold butter off heat; season with salt and pepper to taste.
8
Slice steaks against the grain; plate and spoon warm pan sauce over top. Serve immediately.
IV

Sensory Tests

◇Sight. Clean smoke rises from the surface; bitter acrid smoke signals you've gone too far.
◇Where it lives or dies. Surface chars black in seconds under high heat; slow charring produces only bitterness without the clean, smoky character that defines the dish.
Pillar V
Cross-cuisine parallels are part of membership.
The dishes this one teaches you, across the cuisines — on every recipe.
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VI

What to Pour

The pairing
Del Maguey Vida Mezcal
Del Maguey Single Village Mezcal · Oaxaca — Mezcal
Not yet stocked in British Columbia
Agave spirit
From British Columbia
Fort Berens Riesling
Fort Berens Estate Winery · Lillooet
Not yet stocked in British Columbia
Wine
Without alcohol
GT's Synergy Organic Kombucha — Gingerade
Not yet stocked in British Columbia
Non-alcoholic

Why each one works is part of membership — Enter · from $49 a year →

The whole pairing
Pillar VII
Origin and lineage are part of membership.
Where the dish comes from and how it came to be — on every recipe.
Enter · from $49 a year