Tielle Sétoise

Tielle is the octopus pie of Sète — a small, round, double-crusted tart filled with a spicy tomato-and-octopus ragout, representing the Italian heritage of France's most characterful fishing port. Sète, built on the Mediterranean between the Étang de Thau and the sea, was populated in the 17th-18th centuries by Italian fishermen (particularly from Gaeta, south of Naples), who brought their tiella — a stuffed bread — and adapted it to the local catch. The Sétois version has evolved into something uniquely Languedocien: the pastry is a soft, slightly sweet, olive-oil-enriched dough (closer to a brioche than a pâte brisée), colored deep red-orange with tomato paste and piment d'Espelette or cayenne. The filling: clean and tenderize 500g octopus (simmer 45 minutes in court-bouillon), chop into 1cm pieces. Sauté onion and garlic in olive oil, add 400g crushed tomatoes, the chopped octopus, a pinch of cayenne or piment d'Espelette, a bay leaf, salt, and pepper. Simmer 30 minutes until thick and concentrated — the filling must be relatively dry (wet filling = soggy crust). Roll the dough into small rounds (12cm diameter for individual tielles), fill with octopus ragout, cover with a second dough round, crimp the edges, brush with olive oil, and bake at 200°C for 20-25 minutes until the crust is golden-orange and firm. Tielles are sold warm from bakeries and market stalls along the Quai de la Marine in Sète — they are the street food of the city, eaten by hand as a mid-morning snack or an apéritif with a glass of Picpoul de Pinet. Every family in Sète guards their recipe; the annual Tielle Festival crowns the year's best.