II
The Method
1
Bring a large pot of water to a full boil. Add all chicken pieces — backs, necks, and feet — and blanch for 5 minutes. Drain and rinse thoroughly under cold running water. Peel the outer skin from the feet. The bones must be clean of blood: any grey residue left on the surface will produce a muddy, murky broth.
2
Place the blanched bones in a large, heavy stockpot with the cold water, leek, ginger, and sake. Bring to a full, aggressive rolling boil over high heat. This is where the dish lives or dies: the boil must be maintained — not a gentle simmer, not a moderate bubble, but a vigorous rolling boil — for 5 to 6 hours. A gentle simmer will produce a clear chicken stock; only sustained high-heat agitation emulsifies the fat and collagen from the feet into the water, creating the characteristic opaque, milky-white paitan. The broth is ready when it is dense, visibly white, and coats the back of a spoon.
3
Strain the broth through a fine-mesh sieve, discarding all solids. Assess the fat level: skim some oil from the surface if the broth appears heavy; stir in rendered chicken fat (tori abura) if it appears too light. The finished broth should be opaque, ivory-white, and have the body of thin cream.
4
Prepare the shio tare. Combine the sea salt, sake, mirin, and dried anchovy in a small saucepan. Bring to a low heat, stirring until the salt fully dissolves. Steep for 10 minutes, then strain and discard the anchovy. The tare should smell clean and faintly of the sea, with no rawness of alcohol.
5
Cook the chicken chashu. Poach or gently cook the chicken breast or thigh until just cooked through, then slice. The meat should be yielding but not dry when pressed lightly — it continues no further cooking once placed in the hot broth.
6
Cook the
ramen noodles according to packet instruction. Drain well. Place a measured amount of shio tare in the base of each warmed bowl — approximately 20 ml per portion — then ladle approximately 350 ml of hot paitan broth over it. Stir briefly to combine. The bowl should smell of clean, sweet chicken with sake depth. Arrange the noodles, sliced chashu, and any additional toppings. Serve immediately.