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Italian · Emilia-Romagna

Tortelloni di Ricotta e Spinaci

Tortelloni are the larger cousin of tortellini — roughly twice the size — and represent a different branch of the Emilian filled pasta tradition. Where tortellini are a meat preparation served in broth, tortelloni are typically filled with ricotta and spinach (or, in autumn, ricotta and pumpkin in the Ferrarese tradition) and served with sauce. The distinction matters technically: the larger format means more filling relative to pasta, so the sfoglia can be slightly thicker than for tortellini without becoming doughy. The ricotta-spinach filling requires careful moisture management — the spinach must be cooked, squeezed thoroughly dry, and chopped fine before mixing with well-drained ricotta, egg, Parmigiano-Reggiano, and nutmeg. Excess moisture is the enemy: wet filling produces soggy tortelloni that burst during cooking. The forming technique uses larger squares (5-6cm), and the folding creates a plump half-moon or triangle shape, sometimes with the corners joined like oversized tortellini. The canonical sauce is burro e salvia — melted butter infused with sage leaves until the butter foams and the sage crisps — finished with Parmigiano. In Ferrara, tortelli di zucca (pumpkin tortelli) follow the same format but with a sweet-savoury filling of roasted pumpkin, Parmigiano, nutmeg, and crushed amaretti biscuits — a combination that is quintessentially Emilian in its embrace of sweet-savoury interplay.

ServesFour portions
Sourced0of 10 in BC
Cook
I

The Market List

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For the sfoglia
300 g
tipo 00 flour
Your own market
3
eggs
Your own market
For the filling
500 g
fresh spinach
cooked, squeezed absolutely dry in a cloth, finely chopped
Your own market
400 g
fresh cow's milk ricotta
drained in a fine sieve for several hours or overnight
Your own market
1
egg
Your own market
80 g
Parmigiano-Reggiano
finely grated
Not yet stocked in British Columbia
1 tsp
nutmeg
freshly grated
Your own market
For the burro e salvia
120 g
unsalted butter
cold, cut into pieces
Your own market
12
fresh sage leaves
Not yet stocked in British Columbia
To finish
40 g
Parmigiano-Reggiano
finely grated, to serve
Not yet stocked in British Columbia
II

The Method

1
Cook the spinach in the water clinging to its leaves, then transfer it to a clean cloth. Twist the cloth firmly and repeatedly until no further moisture emerges. Chop the spinach fine. Separately, pass the ricotta through the fine sieve and leave it to drain for several hours or overnight. The spinach must be dry to the touch and the ricotta must hold its shape when pressed with a spoon.
2
Combine the spinach, drained ricotta, egg, grated Parmigiano-Reggiano, and nutmeg in a bowl. Season assertively with salt and pepper — the filling must carry more flavour than seems necessary, as the pasta wrapper will dilute it. Taste the mixture directly and adjust. The filling should be cohesive, thick enough to hold its shape on a spoon, and bold on the palate.
From the canon — Parmigiano-Reggiano is the most important cheese in Italian cooking and arguably the most technically demanding cheese produced anywhere in the world. Parmigiano-Reggiano — Production and Culinary Use →
3
Make the sfoglia: mound the flour, form a well, break the eggs into the centre, and work to a smooth, firm dough. Rest it wrapped for 30 minutes, then roll to a sheet slightly thicker than for tortellini — the larger format tolerates this without becoming doughy. Cut into 5–6 cm squares.
4
This is where the dish lives or dies. Place a generous tablespoon of filling off-centre on each square. Fold the pasta over the filling to form a half-moon or triangle, pressing firmly from the filling outward to expel every pocket of air before sealing the edges. Any air trapped inside will expand during cooking and burst the tortelloni. Run a fingertip moistened with water along the edges before pressing if the dough has dried.
5
Bring a large pan of generously salted water to the boil, then reduce to a gentle simmer — a rolling boil will tumble the tortelloni violently and rupture them. Lower the tortelloni in batches. Cook for 3–4 minutes. They are nearly done when they float to the surface; taste one to confirm the pasta is just tender.
6
Make the burro e salvia while the tortelloni cook. Start with the cold butter in a cold pan and set over a medium flame. As the butter melts and begins to foam, add the sage leaves. Continue cooking until the butter reaches the nocciola stage — golden-brown with a hazelnut scent — and the sage leaves are crisp. Remove from the heat immediately; the line between nocciola and burnt is narrow.
7
Lift the tortelloni from the water with a slotted spoon and transfer them to the pan of sage butter. Add a splash of pasta cooking water and toss very gently — they are fragile. The water and butter will form a light emulsion that coats each tortelloni. Serve immediately with grated Parmigiano-Reggiano.
III

Quality Hierarchy

01
Reserve — Fresh sheep's milk ricotta from a small producer, drained overnight; Parmigiano-Reggiano aged 30 months or more; eggs from a known free-range flock; handmade sfoglia rolled by pin to an even thickness.
02
Estate — Fresh cow's milk ricotta from an artisan dairy, well drained; Parmigiano-Reggiano aged 24 months; good free-range eggs; sfoglia rolled by pin or by hand-cranked machine on its widest settings.
03
Market — Supermarket fresh ricotta drained in a sieve for at least four hours; Parmigiano-Reggiano from the deli counter; standard free-range eggs; sfoglia by pasta machine.
04
House — Mass-produced tub ricotta — grainy, watery, and in need of long draining and pressing; pre-grated Parmigiano; dried sage rather than fresh in the burro e salvia (a loss of brightness). Still cookable if moisture is managed with discipline.
IV

Sensory Tests

◇Touch. The squeezed spinach leaves no damp mark on the cloth; the drained ricotta holds the impression of a spoon without weeping.
◇Taste. The raw filling tastes boldly seasoned — more so than one expects — compensating for the diluting effect of the pasta wrapper.
◇Touch. When the sealed edge is pressed, it offers no soft or bubbled resistance that would indicate a trapped air pocket.
◇Sight. The tortelloni float to the surface of the simmering water and show a slight translucency through the pasta where the filling sits.
◇Smell. The butter in the pan releases a warm hazelnut scent — nocciola — and the sage leaves have ceased to sizzle and lie flat and dry.
◇Where it lives or dies. The tortelloni burst if even a single air pocket is left inside the sealed pasta before it enters the water.
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VI

What to Pour

The pairing
Bera Asti Spumante DOCG
Bera · Asti DOCG
Not yet stocked in British Columbia
Sparkling wine
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The whole pairing
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