Tourte Lorraine

The tourte lorraine is a magnificent covered meat pie that ranks among the most distinguished preparations of Lorraine’s culinary heritage: a deep pastry case of pâte brisée filled with marinated pork and veal, enriched with a cream and egg custard poured in through a chimney hole, then baked until the pastry is golden and the custard just set. This dish is distinct from the quiche (which is an open tart) in that the tourte is fully enclosed, the pastry lid trapping steam and creating a self-basting environment that keeps the filling extraordinarily succulent. The meats — equal parts pork loin and veal escalope, cut into thin strips — are marinated for 24 hours in a mixture of white wine (Vin Gris de Lorraine or a dry Riesling), finely sliced shallots, parsley, thyme, bay leaf, salt, pepper, and optionally a splash of Mirabelle eau-de-vie. After marinating, the meat is drained (reserve the marinade) and the strips layered into the pastry-lined tourte mould (a deep-sided, straight-walled tin, 22-24cm diameter). The custard is prepared: 3 egg yolks, 200ml crème fraîche, and 100ml of the strained marinade, whisked together and seasoned. The pastry lid is placed on top, edges crimped, and two small chimneys (cheminées) are cut into the lid and kept open with small rolls of foil or parchment. The tourte is baked at 200°C for 15 minutes to set the pastry, then at 170°C for a further 35-40 minutes. Fifteen minutes before the end of baking, the warm custard mixture is carefully poured through the chimneys using a small funnel, filling the space between the meat and the lid. This late addition ensures the custard sets gently without overcooking. The finished tourte is rested for 15-20 minutes before unmoulding, then served warm or at room temperature, cut into wedges that reveal the mosaic of meat strips suspended in trembling custard within a crisp pastry shell.