XO sauce is a Hong Kong creation of the 1980s — a luxury condiment born in the Cantonese fine-dining explosion of that decade, named after XO (Extra Old) cognac not because it contains cognac but because cognac was the symbol of luxury among Hong Kong's new wealthy class. It is a cooked paste of premium dried seafood — dried scallops (conpoy), dried shrimp, and Jinhua ham — combined with chillies, garlic, shallots, and oil, making it one of the most umami-intense condiments ever created.
The dried scallops are the centrepiece: rehydrated in water overnight, then shredded and fried in oil until golden and crisp. They contribute an almost impossibly deep sea-sweetness and a texture that adds crunch to the paste. Dried shrimp bring additional seafood umami; Jinhua ham (or its Spanish equivalent, jamón) contributes the cured meat savouriness that makes XO sauce work even with non-seafood dishes. The chillies, garlic, and shallots are fried separately until golden, then combined with the seafood components.
The technique is careful frying rather than a quick paste-assembly — each component is cooked separately to its optimal state before combination. The dried scallops must be fried until crisp or they will be chewy; the shallots must be golden without burning; the garlic must be blonde, not raw. The combination is then gently simmered in oil until everything is integrated and the oil has absorbed the combined flavour of every ingredient.
XO sauce is used as a condiment (spooned over noodles, rice, dumplings), as a stir-fry paste (a tablespoon in the wok before adding any protein creates an extraordinary flavour base), and as an umami intensifier in cooked sauces. Even a small amount transforms a dish.
II
The Method
1
Soak dried scallops in 80 ml warm water for 10 minutes; reserve soaking liquid and shred scallops with a fork into fine threads.
2
Finely chop dried shrimp and chillies; combine in a bowl.
3
Heat oil in a wok over medium-low heat; add sliced shallots and sauté gently for 2 minutes until softened but not coloured.
4
Add minced garlic, Sichuan pepper, shredded scallops, shrimp, and chillies; stir-fry for 3 minutes until fragrant.
5
Add salt, oyster sauce, reserved scallop soaking liquid (strain through cheesecloth), and white pepper; simmer for 4 minutes, stirring frequently.
6
Cool to room temperature; transfer to sterilised jars.
7
STORAGE: Refrigerate up to 8 weeks; oil layer seals surface.
8
USE: 1 tbsp (15 g) per serving swirled into congee, noodles, or dim sum; intense umami and textural complexity.
9
XO SAUCE (Hong Kong — Umami Bomb)
10
Yield: 250 ml jar | Prep: 20 min | Total: 45 min
11
40 g dried scallops (conpoy — premium grade, hand-shredded)
12
30 g Jinhua ham or prosciutto di Parma (finely diced)
13
50 g dried prawns (reconstituted, finely minced)
14
60 ml neutral oil (peanut or vegetable)
15
20 g shallots (thinly sliced)
17
8 g bird's eye chillies (dried, minced)
18
5 g rock sugar (single crystal)
19
10 ml soy sauce (naturally fermented)
20
5 ml sesame oil (toasted)
21
2 g sea salt (to taste)
22
Toast shredded scallops briefly in dry pan over low heat (2 minutes); set aside.
23
Infuse neutral oil with shallots and garlic over gentle heat until fragrant and pale gold (5–6 minutes); do not brown.
24
Add dried chillies, minced prawns, and diced ham; stir constantly for 3–4 minutes until aromatics deepen.
25
Return scallops to pan; add rock sugar and soy sauce; simmer gently for 5 minutes.
26
Remove from heat; cool to room temperature, then stir in sesame oil and sea salt.
27
Transfer to sterilized glass jar; cover and refrigerate for up to 4 weeks.
28
USE: 1–2 tsp in noodles, rice, steamed fish, or as a finishing condiment.
29
A tablespoon of XO sauce in fried rice transforms it from simple to extraordinary — toss in at the very end
30
For a vegetarian approximation: dried shiitake mushrooms and dried tomatoes replace the seafood components
31
XO sauce keeps refrigerated for months under oil — replenish the oil surface after each use
32
Steamed tofu with XO sauce and crispy shallots is one of the simplest great Cantonese preparations
33
XO sauce heated with butter (equal parts) makes a pasta sauce of shocking depth — serves 4 from a tablespoon