Peru — the Moche civilisation on Peru's northern coast used tumbo fruit and salt to cure fish 2,000 years before the Spanish arrived. The lime came with colonisation in the 16th century and sharpened the technique. Lima's current style — pure, minimal leche de tigre — is a distinct expression from Peruvian regional variants, and from Mexican ceviche, which uses tomato, coriander, and onion in a fundamentally different register.
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500 g
firm white fish corvina, sea bass, halibut, or snapper — sushi-grade or day-boat fresh
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180 ml
fresh lime juice approximately 8 limes — never bottled
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2 tbsp
ají amarillo paste the essential Peruvian chilli — fruity, bright heat
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1 large
red onion very thinly sliced, rinsed under cold water 5 minutes
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15 g
fresh ginger grated, for leche de tigre
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2 cloves
garlic for leche de tigre
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large handful
coriander (cilantro) leaves and tender stems
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1 stalk
celery roughly chopped, for leche de tigre
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50 ml
fish or prawn stock for leche de tigre
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to taste
sea salt
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200 g
cancha (toasted corn nuts) or cooked choclo kernels — authentic garnish
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1
sweet potato boiled, sliced — traditional starch accompaniment
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1
Make the leche de tigre: blend lime juice, ají amarillo, ginger, garlic, celery, half the coriander, and stock until smooth. Strain through a fine sieve. Season aggressively with salt — it will temper when combined with the fish.
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2
Cut fish into 2cm cubes or bite-sized irregular pieces. Do not slice too thin or it will cure unevenly.
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3
Combine fish and red onion slices in a non-reactive bowl. Pour leche de tigre over — fish should be well covered.
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4
Let cure 2–3 minutes for soft-textured fish, 5–8 minutes for denser fish. Watch for the colour change from translucent to opaque — this is the cure point. Do not over-marinate.
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5
Taste and adjust — the ceviche should be intensely sharp, bright, and hot in equal measure. Add remaining coriander leaves.
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6
Serve immediately in chilled bowls alongside cancha corn and boiled sweet potato. The remaining leche de tigre can be served as a shot.
Chemical denaturation, not heat. Citric acid from lime juice denatures the fish's surface proteins — the same process that heat achieves, but at room temperature and with different textural outcomes. Optimal marination in the Peruvian style: 3–5 minutes. The fish continues to 'cook' in the acid. Beyond 20 minutes, the proteins over-denature and the flesh becomes rubbery.
- 1. Sashimi-grade sea bass (corvina) or the freshest fish available today — this dish has no hiding place for fish that is less than perfect.
- 2. Key limes, not Persian limes — higher acidity and more aromatic volatile compounds.
- 3. Ají amarillo, fresh or paste — the heat and golden colour that is specific to Peru.
- 4. Red onion, sliced hair-thin and briefly rinsed in cold water to remove the raw sharpness.
- 5. Fresh coriander leaves only, not stems — the stems are too assertive.
The leche de tigre — the cloudy, acidic, spiced liquid that forms as the fish cures. This is not a byproduct. It is the heart of the dish. Peruvian restaurants serve it in a separate shot glass. It contains the flavour of everything that happened in the bowl and should be drunk.
- The fish surface should be opaque-white but the interior should remain translucent — not fully cooked through.
- The leche de tigre should taste simultaneously of lime, fish, heat, and salt without any one element dominant.
- The onion should have lost its aggression but retained its texture.
- Tahitian poisson cru — coconut milk replaces lime, same acid-free curing principle, same raw-fish ethos.
- Mexican aguachile — extra-spicy, cucumber, minimal curing time; the northern Mexican interpretation.
- Japanese sashimi — no acid curing at all. The raw comparison that illustrates precisely what the acid changes.