Baechu-kimchi: Packing and Fermentation Initiation (damgeuki)

The kimjang packing technique is UNESCO Intangible Cultural Heritage (2013), representing Korean communal food culture

The act of rubbing the yangnyeom into every leaf is done wearing gloves to protect hands from capsaicin. Work from inner leaves outward, pressing the paste firmly against each leaf surface to ensure anaerobic contact. Fold each head into a compact bundle using the outermost leaf as a wrapper. Pack tightly into the container, pressing down firmly after each layer to eliminate air pockets — air pockets are where the dish lives or dies, allowing aerobic bacteria to produce off-flavours. Traditional containers are onggi (unglazed earthenware) which breathe slightly and regulate internal temperature. At room temperature (18-22 C), leave loosely covered for 12-24 hours before refrigerating.

• The anaerobic packing principle mirrors traditional German sauerkraut barrel packing with the Gaerungsstein (fermentation stone) to eliminate air

Kimchi packed with care has a clean lactic sourness that develops depth over time. Kimchi packed carelessly has a yeasty quality from the first week that compounds rather than mellows with age