Portugal (national)
The Portuguese salt cod fritters — small oval cakes of shredded bacalhau, potato, egg, parsley, and onion, fried in olive oil until golden and crisp outside, yielding and fragrant within. Known as bolinhos de bacalhau (little balls of cod) in Portugal and pastéis de bacalhau in Brazil, they are among the most universally eaten Portuguese preparations — appearing at every café counter, every party table, and every family lunch table throughout the year. The technique requires the correct potato-to-cod ratio (more potato than cod, which is the Portuguese style — the Brazilian version inverts this) and a gentle frying temperature that allows the interior to heat through before the exterior over-browns.
The bacalhau must be very finely shredded — no chunks, no flakes, only fibres. Mix with mashed potato (smooth, no lumps), beaten egg, chopped parsley, grated onion, and seasoning. The mixture must be stiff enough to hold its oval shape when formed with two wet spoons. Fry in olive oil at 170-175°C — not too high or the exterior browns before the interior is hot. Drain on paper. Serve immediately.
The two-spoon method for forming the oval shape (quenelle technique) produces the traditional presentation. A small amount of nutmeg in the mixture adds warmth. For service, the bolinhos can be formed and refrigerated unbaked for up to 24 hours — fry to order. Some modern versions add a chorizo or smoked paprika element to the mix — this is a contemporary adaptation that works well but departs from tradition. Pair with Vinho Verde or white Douro.
Using chunks of bacalhau instead of finely shredded fibres — the texture is wrong. Wet mashed potato — the fritters fall apart in the oil. Frying too hot — the exterior over-browns. Making too large — individual fritters should be approximately 4-5cm, one or two bites.
My Portugal by George Mendes