Aragón and Navarra, Spain
Borage (borraja, Borago officinalis) is the defining vegetable of Aragonese and Navarran cuisine — one of the few traditional European vegetables that has a truly regional culinary identity. The pale green, slightly hairy stems and leaves are boiled until tender and served as a green vegetable alongside other preparations, or in a sauce with alioli, or with a poached egg. In Zaragoza's restaurant scene, borrajas are treated with the same seriousness as asparagus in Navarra or artichokes in Tudela. The flavour is mild, slightly cucumber-like, with a faint mineral note that makes it unique among cooked greens. The texture after boiling is tender but not soft — it retains a slight bite that requires precise cooking time.
Borage stems must be cleaned of their fine hairs — run under cold water while rubbing gently. Cut into 4-5cm sections. Boil in salted water for 8-12 minutes until tender but not collapsing — test with a knife. Drain and serve immediately with: alioli, olive oil and garlic, or alongside a poached egg. The boiling liquid carries some of the borage flavour and can be used as a light broth.
Borrajas con alioli is the most traditional Aragonese preparation — the mild vegetable and the powerful garlic mayonnaise create a classic combination of restraint and boldness. The leaves of borage (not just stems) can be used in salads when very young — they have the same cucumber note. For restaurant kitchens outside Aragón and Navarra, borage can sometimes be sourced from specialty vegetable farms; it grows readily in temperate climates and any kitchen garden. The blue flowers of the borage plant are edible and make a striking edible garnish.
Not removing the hairs — the fine hairs cause a slight irritation in the mouth. Overcooking — the texture becomes watery and unpleasant. Treating like spinach — borage has a much firmer stem that needs longer cooking than leafy greens.
The Food of Spain by Claudia Roden