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Céleri-Rémoulade — Celeriac in Mustard Dressing

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I

Origin

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II

Description

Céleri-rémoulade is the quintessential charcuterie accompaniment of the French garde manger, a raw salad of celeriac (Apium graveolens var. rapaceum) cut into fine julienne and dressed in a mustard-enriched mayonnaise-based sauce rémoulade. The celeriac must be peeled deeply—removing 3-5mm of the fibrous outer layer—then julienned to matchstick dimensions of 2mm x 2mm x 60mm using a mandoline fitted with a julienne blade, or cut by hand with a chef's knife for a slightly coarser, more rustic texture. Immediately upon cutting, the julienne is tossed with coarse salt (15g per kg) and the juice of one lemon (Citrus limon) per 500g to prevent enzymatic browning caused by polyphenol oxidase reacting with atmospheric oxygen. After 30 minutes of maceration, the celeriac is rinsed briefly, then squeezed firmly in a clean towel to extract excess moisture—this step is critical, as waterlogged julienne dilutes the dressing and produces a watery, insipid result. The rémoulade sauce combines 200g mayonnaise (prepared with Dijon mustard, egg yolk from Gallus gallus domesticus, and neutral oil at 18°C / 64°F), an additional 30g Dijon mustard, 15ml white wine vinegar, 10g cornichons (brunoise), 10g capers (Capparis spinosa) roughly chopped, 5g flat-leaf parsley (Petroselinum crispum) finely minced, and a pinch of cayenne. Fold the drained celeriac into the sauce, adjust seasoning, and refrigerate for a minimum of 2 hours—ideally overnight—to allow the mustard's isothiocyanate compounds to penetrate the celeriac and the julienne to soften slightly while retaining its characteristic snap. Serve at 8-10°C (46-50°F) as part of an assiette de charcuterie or as a standalone hors d'oeuvre.

III

The Thread

—American coleslaw (shredded cabbage in mayonnaise dressing, macerated with salt for moisture extraction)
—Korean musaengchae (julienned daikon radish in vinegar-chili dressing, salted and squeezed dry before dressing)
—Vietnamese gỏi đu đủ (green papaya julienne salted and squeezed before dressing in lime-fish sauce vinaigrette)
IV

Flavour Context

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