Mexico. Enchiladas (from enchilar — to coat in chilli) appear in 19th-century Mexican cookbooks. The dipping of corn tortillas in chilli sauce before filling and rolling is documented as a technique from the colonial period.
Enchiladas verdes — corn tortillas dipped in warm salsa verde, filled with shredded chicken, rolled, and baked under more salsa verde with crumbled cotija and crema. The tortillas must be dipped in warm salsa before rolling — this softens them and infuses them with the tomatillo flavour from the outside in. Dry-rolled enchiladas are a different, inferior dish.
Modelo Especial or a Paloma cocktail (tequila, grapefruit soda, lime, salt). The Paloma's grapefruit bitterness mirrors the tomatillo in the salsa verde.
{"Salsa verde: roasted tomatillos, serrano, garlic, white onion, and coriander blended — the roasting develops a smoky sweetness","Corn tortillas (not flour): warmed briefly in a dry pan, then dipped in the warm salsa verde — they must be pliable before rolling","Shredded chicken: poached or pulled rotisserie chicken, tossed with sauteed onion, garlic, and a tablespoon of salsa verde","The dip: hold the tortilla with tongs, submerge in warm (not cold) salsa for 5 seconds per side","Roll tightly, place seam-down in the baking dish, cover with remaining salsa, and bake at 180C for 15-20 minutes","Garnish: crumbled cotija cheese (not cheddar), Mexican crema, sliced white onion, and fresh coriander"}
The moment where enchiladas live or die is the tortilla conditioning — dip in warm salsa, place immediately on the rolling surface, fill, and roll before the tortilla stiffens. Work quickly with each tortilla.
{"Using cold salsa for dipping: the tortillas do not soften sufficiently","Using flour tortillas: they become gluey when baked in salsa — corn tortillas are correct","Under-baking: the sauce must bubble and the tortillas should be just beginning to set"}