Ribera del Ebro, Navarra, Spain
The white asparagus of Navarra — grown under black plastic sheeting that prevents photosynthesis and keeps the spears blanched and tender — is one of the great luxury vegetables of Spain, with DOP status and a market price that rivals the best Alsatian or German white asparagus. The technique of growing white asparagus involves earthing up the spear as it emerges from the ground and covering it completely from light until harvest at first light each morning. Navarran white asparagus is traditionally canned at the peak of season — this is not a compromise but a tradition, as the canning process mellows the flavour slightly and produces the specific texture associated with classic Spanish preparations. Fresh Navarra asparagus (April-May) is available to chefs who source directly from the Ribera del Ebro region.
Fresh white asparagus: peel the lower two-thirds of each spear with a vegetable peeler (the skin is bitter and fibrous). Cook standing upright in a tall narrow pot in lightly salted, slightly acidulated water (a squeeze of lemon prevents oxidation). 12-18 minutes depending on thickness — test with a skewer. Serve warm or at room temperature with vinaigrette, mayonnaise, or simply with good olive oil and salt. Never ice-shock white asparagus — the texture becomes woody.
The cooking water from white asparagus is flavoured and slightly bitter — use it as the base for a light cream soup or reduce it for a sauce. The traditional Navarran preparation is simply boiled asparagus with local olive oil (Empeltre variety from Aragon and Navarra) and sea salt. Pair with Chardonnay from Navarra or a white Rioja. The canned version (Conservas Navarras DOP) is a genuine pantry staple — look for brands from the Lodosa area.
Not peeling — the skin is inedible. Ice-shocking after cooking — firms the texture in a way that damages the delicate eating quality. Over-cooking — white asparagus becomes slippery and loses its internal structure. Serving with overly acidic dressings — the asparagus's delicacy is lost.
The Food of Spain by Claudia Roden
Not peeling — the skin is inedible. Ice-shocking after cooking — firms the texture in a way that damages the delicate eating quality. Over-cooking — white asparagus becomes slippery and loses its internal structure. Serving with overly acidic dressings — the asparagus's delicacy is lost.