Alba, Piedmont
Alba's celebrated autumn preparation: a soft, runny-centred fried egg topped with shaved white truffle (Tuber magnatum pico) at the moment of service. The 'fondant' egg is cooked in a covered pan with butter and a splash of water — the steam sets the white while the yolk remains completely liquid. The technique ensures the egg white is just set (not rubbery) while the yolk will flow when broken, creating a sauce for the truffle. The truffle is shaved at table in front of the diner. No other seasoning beyond salt and butter.
Pure butter and egg sweetness; runny yolk as sauce; white truffle's garlicky-honey aromatic; the distillation of Piedmontese autumn
{"Use best quality fresh eggs — yolk colour and flavour are the foundation; the truffle enhances but cannot compensate for poor eggs","Covered pan technique: butter melts, egg cracks in, add 1 tablespoon of water, cover immediately","Steam sets the white in 2–3 min at medium-low heat — the lid traps steam; without the lid the white sets by direct heat and the yolk over-cooks","Remove when the white is just opaque and the yolk is still visibly liquid — it continues to set for 30 seconds after leaving the pan","Shave Alba white truffle generously at table — 5–10g per portion is the restaurant standard; this is a luxury preparation"}
{"The steam technique also works without a pan lid — use a plate placed over the pan as a makeshift lid","Parmigiano Reggiano grated over the white before serving is a traditional Piedmontese addition","The egg-truffle combination works because the egg yolk's lecithin carries the truffle's fat-soluble volatile aromatics to the palate","White truffle season: October–December; outside this window, the dish should not be made — there is no off-season substitute"}
{"Covering too late — if the egg is already half-set when the lid goes on, the yolk will over-cook in the steam","High heat — the white bubbles and turns rubbery before the yolk is set; medium-low is correct","Shaving truffle before service — the volatile aromatics of white truffle dissipate within seconds of shaving; shave immediately before eating","Using any truffle other than fresh Tuber magnatum — summer truffle or black truffle are different flavours and are incorrect for this dish"}
La Cucina del Piemonte — Giovanni Goria