Chao shou (抄手, literally crossed arms) are the Sichuan name for wontons — thin-skinned pork parcels served in a bowl of chilli oil and sauce rather than in a broth. The name refers to the folding method: the wrapper placed flat, the filling placed in the center, the sides folded and crossed over like crossing your arms. Chao shou are a fixture of Chengdu morning street food culture and one of the most accessible expressions of the mala flavour profile.
The wonton wrapper: Thinner than northern Chinese jiaozi wrappers — almost translucent when fresh. Commercial wonton wrappers (square, 8-9cm) are appropriate for home use. The filling: Simple minced pork with ginger, scallion, Shaoxing wine, salt, and soy sauce. The filling should be loose enough that it spreads slightly when bitten. The folding: Place a small amount of filling (about 1 tsp) in the center. Fold in half diagonally to form a triangle. Press edges to seal. Cross the two bottom corners over each other and press together. The sauce: 2 tbsp chilli oil (with sediment), 1 tbsp soy sauce, 1 tsp Chinkiang vinegar, 1 tsp sesame oil, 1/2 tsp ground Sichuan peppercorn, 1 tsp sugar, 1-2 tbsp hot wonton cooking water to thin.
Over-filling: Overfilled wontons split during boiling, releasing the filling into the cooking water.
Fuchsia Dunlop, Land of Plenty (2001); Fuchsia Dunlop, The Food of Sichuan (2019)