Basque Country and Navarra, Spain
The most important cheese of the Basque Country and Navarra — a pressed, semi-cured sheep's milk cheese (from Latxa and Carranzana breeds) that is cold-smoked over cherry or beech wood before aging, producing a distinctive dark amber to mahogany rind and an interior that balances the mild natural sweetness of sheep's milk with subtle smoke and a slight nuttiness from the aging. DOP Idiazábal covers a wide range from mild (2-month curado) to intense (8-month madurado). Idiazábal is the cheese that appears at every Basque meal — on the pintxo bar, with walnuts and membrillo, melted over dishes, grated over soups. It is the defining regional cheese in the same way that Manchego defines La Mancha.
The smoking process uses cherry or beech wood — the smoke penetrates the rind without cooking the cheese. The smoked rind adds a complexity to the fat beneath it and creates a distinctive presentation. Serve at room temperature. Slice thin for pintxos or in thicker pieces for a cheese board. Pair with: Basque cider (sagardoa), Txakoli, Rioja Crianza, or walnuts and membrillo in the traditional Basque board.
The Idiazábal DOP encompasses Basque Country and Navarra — production is extensive but the quality range is significant. Look for artisan (artesano) versions from small producers in the Urola valley and the Basque highlands. Idiazábal grated over porrusalda (leek soup) or over papas a la riojana is a common use — the slightly smoky cheese melting into hot soup or stew adds depth. The annual Idiazábal Fair in Ordizia (Gipuzkoa) in September is the definitive showcase of the cheese's range.
Serving cold from the refrigerator — the smoke character is muted below 14°C. Confusing with other smoked cheeses — the Latxa sheep's milk provides a specific flavour profile. Buying unsmoked Idiazábal (which exists, for those who prefer it) — the smoked version is more representative.
The Basque Book by Alexandra Raij