Kawakawa (Māori Pepper Tree)

Kawakawa (Piper excelsum, NZ pepper tree) is the most widely used plant in rongoā Māori (traditional medicine) and one of the foundational spices of the native pantry. The heart-shaped leaves have a warm, peppery, slightly anise-like flavour. The plant belongs to the Piperaceae family — the same family as black pepper (Piper nigrum) and long pepper (Piper longum). Kawakawa is to Māori cuisine what kawakawa's close relative — kava (Piper methysticum) — is to Polynesian ceremony: a Piper-family plant with cultural significance that runs deeper than flavour. The most prized kawakawa leaves are those with insect holes — the holes indicate the caterpillar of the kawakawa looper moth (Cleora scriptaria) has fed on the leaf, which some practitioners believe increases the plant's production of beneficial compounds.

Kawakawa leaves are used fresh or dried. Fresh leaves are brewed into tea — the most common traditional use, drunk for digestive complaints, colds, and general wellness. Dried and ground kawakawa is used as a seasoning — it has a warm, peppery heat milder than horopito but with a distinctive anise-like backnote. Fiso uses kawakawa in syrups, infusions, and as a finishing herb. OCHO Chocolate in Dunedin pairs kawakawa with horopito in their native-spice chocolate bar. The berries (small, orange-yellow, produced on female plants only) are also edible — peppery and aromatic, used sparingly as a garnish.

Kawakawa: warm, gently peppery, with an anise-like or slightly numbing backnote. Milder and more complex than horopito's direct polygodial hit. Kawakawa tea: warming, peppery, soothing — the NZ equivalent of a peppermint or ginger tea but with more depth. As a seasoning: complements fish (particularly smoked fish), venison, and root vegetables. The kawakawa + horopito combination is the native pepper duo — used together, they provide a layered heat: kawakawa's warm front and horopito's sharp peak.