Lamb Tagine with Artichokes and Preserved Lemon
One of 4 entries · Paula Wolfert, Couscous and Other Good Food from Morocco (1973); Claudia Roden, Arabesque (2005)
Morocco (Fès and the northern plains — the canonical spring tagine; the artichoke season (March–May) as the occasion for this preparation)
The lamb and artichoke tagine is Morocco's great spring preparation: Ovis aries shoulder braised in a M'qualli base (saffron, ginger, confited Allium cepa onion, Olea europaea olive-oil) until approaching tenderness, then Cynara scolymus globe artichoke hearts (trimmed of all choke and outer leaves, rubbed with lemon to prevent browning) added for the final 30 minutes, along with preserved lemon quarters and cracked Moroccan olives. The artichoke absorbs the M'qualli sauce and becomes saturated with saffron-ginger-lemon flavour — the vegetable is as important as the lamb in the finished dish. The artichoke's slight bitterness counterpoints the lamb's richness in a way that no other vegetable achieves in this preparation. In Moroccan households, the tagine is served when the artichokes in the market are young and sweet — it is a seasonal indicator as much as a recipe.
Served with khobz and couscous at a spring lunch or dinner. The artichoke hearts are as flavourful as the lamb — both should arrive on the couscous base. A cold Moroccan Gris de Gris wine (if available) pairs with the green-herbal artichoke register.
Trimming the artichoke. Fully trimmed artichoke absorbs the M'qualli sauce and becomes the dish's secondary hero. Under-trimmed artichoke produces fibrous, unpleasant texture that dominates the…