Lewerknepfle (liver dumplings, from the Alsatian Lewer = liver, Knepfle = small dumplings) are one of the defining preparations of Alsatian home cooking: small, tender dumplings of calf’s or pork liver mixed with stale bread, eggs, and aromatics, poached in broth and served either in the broth as a soup course or sautéed in browned butter as a main course. This dish exemplifies the Alsatian talent for elevating offal into refined preparations through careful technique and restraint in seasoning. The liver (250g per 4 portions) must be meticulously cleaned: all membrane, sinew, and bile ducts removed, then minced very finely by hand or passed through the fine disc of a meat grinder. The bread component: 150g of stale white bread (pain de mie is ideal) soaked in warm milk until completely soft, then squeezed dry to form a paste (the panade). The liver, panade, a finely minced onion sautéed in butter until translucent, 2 whole eggs, a tablespoon of flour, chopped parsley and chives, and seasoning of salt, pepper, and nutmeg are combined and mixed thoroughly. The mixture should be soft but hold its shape when scooped with a spoon — if too loose, add a tablespoon more flour; if too stiff, a splash of milk. The dumplings are formed using two tablespoons dipped in hot water (the quenelle technique), shaping neat oval dumplings of approximately 3cm length. They are poached in gently simmering salted water or beef broth for 8-10 minutes until they float and feel firm when pressed. For the broth presentation, the dumplings are served in a clear beef consommé with chives. For the main course version, the poached dumplings are drained, then sautéed in foaming beurre noisette until golden on all sides, finished with a squeeze of lemon and more chopped parsley. The liver should taste clean and delicate, not aggressive — the sign of impeccable preparation is that a diner might not immediately identify liver as the primary ingredient.
Liver meticulously cleaned of all membrane and sinew. Panade of milk-soaked stale bread, squeezed dry. Formed with two-spoon quenelle technique. Poach gently 8-10 minutes until firm and floating. Serve in broth or sautéed in beurre noisette. Liver flavour should be clean and delicate.
Chill the dumpling mixture for 30 minutes before forming — it firms up and shapes more easily. Test one dumpling first: poach a single one, taste, and adjust seasoning before forming the rest. For the finest texture, push the liver through a fine sieve (tamis) rather than grinding it.
Insufficiently cleaning the liver, leaving bitter membranes. Mixture too wet, falling apart during poaching. Boiling instead of simmering, which toughens the dumplings. Not squeezing the bread dry enough. Using a food processor for the liver (it overheats and produces a pasty texture). Overcooking, which makes them rubbery.
La Cuisine Alsacienne (Simone Morgenthaler)