Marche interior — the combination of Visciole wine and cured pork is specifically Marchigiani. Visciole (sour cherry wine, typically a passito style) is made only in the Marche and is the traditional wine of the region for sweet-savoury preparations.
Lonza (cured pork loin) is the defining salume of the Marche — aged, lightly spiced, and thinly sliced as the region's most valued cured meat. The lonza di fico is the aristocratic variant: a whole boned pork loin, seasoned with salt, pepper, and Marchigiani spices (typically cloves, cinnamon, and mace in small amounts), rolled around dried figs that have been soaked in Visciole wine (the local sour cherry wine) or Vernaccia, and then tied, cured in salt for several days, and hung to air-dry for 2-3 months. The dried figs provide an interior sweetness that counterpoints the savoury, slightly spiced cured pork — an agrodolce logic applied to a salume.
Sliced thin, the lonza di fico reveals a cross-section of pink cured pork surrounding a dark, sweet fig. The flavour is savoury and salt-cured, with the gentle sweetness of the fig appearing in the finish — not sweet, not confectionery, but a low, satisfying counterpoint that makes the pork taste richer. It is one of the most elegant salumi of Italy.
Trim a boned pork loin (2-2.5kg) of excess fat, leaving a thin cap. Season with fine salt, black pepper, and the aromatic spices — the quantities should be restrained; the spices perfume, not dominate. Soak dried figs in Visciole wine or Vernaccia until plump (4-6 hours). Line the interior of the flattened loin with the soaked figs in a row. Roll the loin tightly around the figs and tie firmly at 2cm intervals. Rub the exterior with additional salt and pepper. Place in a curing vessel, cover with salt, and cure for 5-7 days in the refrigerator (turning daily). Rinse, dry, and hang in a cool, ventilated space (10-14°C, 75-80% humidity) for 2-3 months.
Visciole (sour cherry wine) is the traditional wine of the Marche for the fig soaking — its acidity and fruit note complement the fig sweetness. The result, when sliced thin, shows a beautiful cross-section of rosy cured meat surrounding the dark fig centre. Serve with crescia sfogliata and sharp young Pecorino.
Figs too wet when rolled in — excess moisture from the soaking wine can cause the interior to become acidic and soften the cured meat. Rolling too loosely — the lonza must be firm to hold its shape during curing. Curing in too-warm conditions — above 15°C accelerates fermentation and can cause off-flavours. Cutting before fully cured — 2 months minimum for the flavours to integrate.
Slow Food Editore, Marche in Cucina; Corby Kummer, The Pleasures of Slow Food