Molise — maccheroni alla molisana is the everyday pasta of both the Campobasso and Isernia provinces. The preparation is identical in principle across the region; the specific Molisani identity comes from the rosemary-scented pancetta and the local Pecorino Molisano.
Maccheroni alla molisana is the everyday pasta of Molise — a sauce made with rendered pancetta (or guanciale), crushed tomato, peperoncino, garlic, and finished with abundant grated Pecorino Molisano. The pasta is short and ridged (rigatoni, mezze maniche, or local pasta al ferretto) to hold the tomato-pork sauce. The preparation is deceptively simple and depends entirely on the quality of the pancetta (ideally the Molisani version, scented with rosemary and black pepper), the freshness of the Pecorino, and the intensity of the tomato (preserves, estratto, or very ripe fresh in summer). It is the Molisani equivalent of amatriciana — the same principle, slightly different execution.
Maccheroni alla molisana in the bowl has the sauce clinging to every ridge of the pasta — dense, slightly oily from the pancetta fat, fragrant with rosemary and peperoncino. The Pecorino grated over begins to melt into the sauce immediately. The flavour is direct and satisfying: pork, tomato, pepper, sheep's cheese. It is the Molisani pantry in a bowl.
Dice pancetta (or guanciale — the Molisani version scented with rosemary is preferable) into 1cm cubes. Render in a dry pan until the fat is translucent and beginning to colour. Add a clove of garlic (whole, to remove later) and a dried peperoncino; cook 30 seconds. Add crushed peeled tomatoes (in winter: preserved; in summer: very ripe fresh). Simmer 20-25 minutes until the sauce is dense and the fat has separated slightly to the surface (this is correct — it is a sign of adequate reduction). Season with salt. Cook pasta al dente; drain with a little of the pasta water retained. Add pasta to the sauce; stir vigorously over heat for 60 seconds. Plate and finish with very generous Pecorino Molisano grated over.
The Molisani pancetta (arrotolata, rolled and seasoned with rosemary, black pepper, and garlic) is more aromatic than standard flat pancetta; the rosemary note runs through the sauce. Some Molisani add a basil leaf to the sauce in the last minute of cooking — unusual for a pork-tomato sauce but traditional in the Isernia province. The pasta water retained helps bind the sauce to the pasta in the final toss.
Underseasoning with Pecorino — the Pecorino is not a garnish; it should be used generously and contributes body and saltiness to the finished dish. Adding oil to the rendering pancetta — the pancetta provides its own fat; added oil dilutes the flavour. Cooking the sauce too briefly — the tomato must reduce significantly; a short-cooked sauce is thin and acidic.
Anna Gosetti della Salda, Le Ricette Regionali Italiane; Slow Food Editore, Molise in Cucina