Setúbal Peninsula, Portugal
The fortified Moscatel from the Setúbal peninsula south of Lisbon — made from Muscat of Alexandria (Moscatel de Setúbal) and Muscat Blanc à Petits Grains, fortified with grape spirit before fermentation is complete (like port), and then aged in old oak casks for 5-25+ years. The result is a wine of extraordinary aromatic intensity — orange blossom, apricot, dried mango, and honey — with the caramelised, oxidative complexity of extended cask aging. Moscatel de Setúbal from Bacalhôa Vinhos (formerly José Maria da Fonseca) represents a 200-year tradition of production at the Quinta de Setúbal, and the 20-year, 25-year, and vintage releases are among Portugal's finest wines of any style.
The fortification with spirit stops fermentation at 2-4 Baumé residual sugar, capturing intense Muscat aromatics. The Muscat skins are macerated in the fortified must for 2-3 months before pressing — this extracts the maximum aromatic intensity. Aged in old oak (not new) to avoid oak domination over the delicate Muscat character. Serve at 12-14°C. Pair with: ovos moles, toucinho do céu, pastéis de nata, dried figs, Roquefort or Cabrales, and dark chocolate.
The 20-year Moscatel de Setúbal from Bacalhôa is one of the great undervalued wines in the world — 20 years of cask aging at a fraction of a comparable port or sherry. An opened bottle keeps for 3-4 weeks in the refrigerator. Use the younger (5-year) version to macerate dried apricots, figs, and raisins for a Portuguese fruit compote that pairs with arroz doce and ovos moles.
Serving ice cold — the aromatics close. Pairing with bland desserts — Moscatel de Setúbal needs an equal partner in flavour. Treating it as a simple sweet wine — the oxidative complexity of an aged release (20+ years) rivals the best tawny ports.
My Portugal by George Mendes