Padrón, Galicia, Spain
The small green peppers of Padrón, Galicia — pan-fried whole in olive oil until blistered and lightly charred, then seasoned with coarse sea salt. The famous saying applies: 'Os pementos de Padrón, uns pican e outros non' — Padrón peppers, some are hot and some are not. Approximately one in ten (or twenty, depending on growing conditions and time of year) carries a capsaicin hit; the rest are mild, sweet, and grassy. This culinary roulette is the point. The technique is among the simplest in Spanish cooking: very high heat, small amount of olive oil, the peppers tossed and blistered for 3-4 minutes. The skin should char in spots, the flesh beneath should remain slightly firm. Season aggressively with flaky sea salt only after frying.
The pan or griddle must be very hot — the peppers need to char, not steam. Use just enough olive oil to film the pan. Add the peppers in a single layer, don't crowd. Toss or shake continuously for 3-4 minutes until evenly blistered. Remove immediately to paper, season with very coarse sea salt. Serve immediately — they deflate and lose their texture within 5 minutes.
The heat variable in Padrón peppers increases with age in the season — July-August peppers are more reliably hot than May-June peppers. This variability is why the dish is beloved: the group eating together takes turns encountering the hot ones. For restaurant service, serve in the pan or in a small earthenware dish, with extra sea salt on the side. Pair with Albariño or Ribeiro — the grassiness of both wines mirrors the pepper's flavour.
Crowding the pan — the peppers steam and turn soft without charring. Using too much oil — the peppers become greasy. Salting before frying — the salt draws moisture and prevents blistering. Letting them sit before service — serve immediately.
The Food of Spain by Claudia Roden