Pico Island, Azores, Portugal
The wine of Pico Island in the Azores — grown in a UNESCO World Heritage cultural landscape of black basalt lava fields (currais) where vines are protected from Atlantic winds by low stone walls built over centuries by hand. The grape is Verdelho, grown on volcanic basalt soils where roots penetrate deep into the rock seeking moisture — producing wines of extraordinary minerality, natural salinity, and fresh acidity. The currais (walled plots, each housing a single vine or a handful of vines) give Pico wine its unmistakable appearance from the air — a patchwork of black stone walls against the island's bright green grass, with the vines low to the ground between them. This is one of the most labour-intensive wine landscapes in the world.
Verdelho from Pico produces wines of high natural acidity (the Atlantic climate prevents overripening), significant salinity from the sea spray and basalt minerals, and a characteristic smoky, mineral note from the volcanic soil. Serve cold (8-10°C). Pair with: fresh Azorean seafood (limpets — lapas — are the island's signature), linguiça sausage, queijo do Pico (the island's fresh cow's milk cheese), and cozido das Furnas.
Pico wine is limited in production and rarely found outside Portugal — Adega do Vulcão and Azores Wine Company are the main producers. The Azores Wine Company (AWC) has been the key force in bringing Pico wine to international attention. The lapas (limpets) of the Azores — grilled with garlic and lemon on volcanic stone — represent the definitive local pairing with Pico Verdelho. This is one of the great underknown terroir wines of Europe.
Treating Pico Verdelho as interchangeable with mainland Portuguese white wines — the terroir produces a distinctly different flavour profile. Serving at room temperature — the volcanic mineral character is best expressed cold.
My Portugal by George Mendes