Lodosa, Navarra, Spain
The piquillo pepper (DOP Pimiento del Piquillo de Lodosa) is a small, pointed, sweet-hot red pepper grown in the Lodosa region of Navarra, roasted over wood fire to char the skin, then peeled, and either preserved in its own juices or used fresh. The combination of wood-fire roasting and no seed bitterness produces a flavour of concentrated, slightly smoky sweetness that has made the piquillo one of the most versatile preserved vegetables in the Spanish kitchen. They appear as a tapa filled with salt cod (piquillos rellenos de bacalao), as a sauce base, as a garnish for roasted meats, and in the famous Navarran pairing with salt cod braised in piquillo pepper sauce.
The genuine DOP piquillo from Lodosa is roasted over wood fire (not gas) — this is the defining flavour. They are never washed after roasting — the dark juice from the roasting is part of the product. Commercially packed piquillos in their own juice are acceptable and represent a reliable product. Fill with brandade (salt cod and potato cream) for the classic preparation. The sauce (crema de piquillos) is made by blending the peppers with their juice, olive oil, and a touch of cream.
Piquillos rellenos de bacalao: fill with a warm salt cod brandade mixture, sear briefly in olive oil until warm through, and serve with a reduction of the pepper juice and olive oil. The heat from the searing seals the filling and slightly caramelises the pepper exterior. One of the simplest elegant tapas in Spanish cooking. Pair with white Rioja or Navarra Chardonnay.
Confusing with other roasted red peppers — the piquillo's specific sweetness and lack of bitterness is variety-specific. Rinsing after opening the can — discards the valuable juice. Over-filling — the pepper tears if over-filled.
The Food of Spain by Claudia Roden