Ribera del Duero, Castilla y León, Spain
Spain's most dramatic red wine region — the Duero valley at 800-900 metres elevation, where extremes of temperature (up to 50°C diurnal range in summer) and the continental climate produce Tempranillo (called Tinto Fino or Tinto del País locally) of extraordinary colour, tannin, and concentration. The wines of Ribera del Duero have been internationally significant since Vega Sicilia was awarded gold at the 1929 Barcelona World Exhibition — and the region now contains some of Spain's most ambitious and expensive red wines. The Ribera del Duero style is darker, more tannic, more muscular than Rioja — less vanilla-oak, more dark fruit and mineral. The soil is chalk and limestone (similar to Burgundy), and the altitude produces a long ripening season with intense UV and cool nights that preserves acidity.
Joven (young, 0 barrel) and Roble (brief oak) styles are for early drinking with meats and stews. Crianza (12+ months oak) and Reserva (18+ months) are the food-focused styles. Gran Reserva (24+ months) requires significant age to reveal its complexity. The classic Ribera del Duero food pairing is roast lamb (cordero lechal) and roast suckling pig (cochinillo) — the tannin and dark fruit are the counterpoint to the animal fat. Serve at 16-18°C after 30-60 minutes decanting for Reserva and above.
The great Ribera del Duero producers (Vega Sicilia, Pesquera, Pingus, Emilio Moro, Cillar de Silos) range from accessible to collectors' pieces. The Pesquera Crianza is the most useful restaurant by-the-glass Ribera del Duero — it delivers the regional character at a price that allows experimentation. The river Duero continues into Portugal as the Douro — and the Tempranillo of Ribera del Duero is the same grape as the Tinta Roriz of the Douro Valley port wines. This is the great Iberian red wine grape.
Drinking Reserva and Gran Reserva too young — these wines need 5-15 years minimum. Serving too warm — above 20°C and the alcohol dominates. Pairing with delicate fish or vegetables — the tannin overwhelms everything light.
The Food of Spain by Claudia Roden