Rougets Grillés au Fenouil

Provence — the technique of grilling red mullet directly over or with dried fennel stalks, producing a scented smoke that cooks into the skin and flesh. Associated with the Marseille coast and Côte d'Azur; the dried fennel is gathered from wild Foeniculum vulgare that grows throughout the garrigue.

Whole Mullus surmuletus (200–300g) are cleaned, keeping the liver intact inside the cavity — this is the defining element of the preparation. The exterior is brushed with Olea europaea and scored three times on each side. Dried fennel stalks are placed directly on the charcoal grate or laid as a bed over the charcoal. The fish are placed on top or beside the burning fennel. The fennel burns in 3–5 minutes at grill temperature, producing dense anise-scented smoke. The fish cook 4–5 minutes per side. The retained liver melts into the cavity and runs down to the board at service, providing the condiment — a natural liver sauce requiring no additional preparation.

Anise smoke penetrates the scored flesh. The liver provides an earthy, offal richness that cuts through the clean sea flavour of the mullet. The fin edges caramelise and eat as a crisp garnish. This is a dish that rewards eating with hands — the head and collar release the most flavour.