Tripoux (or tripous) are small parcels of stuffed sheep's tripe — the Auvergne's most distinctive offal preparation, found across the Cantal, Aveyron, and Lozère in dozens of local variations but unified by a single principle: pieces of sheep's (or veal's) stomach are wrapped around a stuffing of chopped tripe, ham, garlic, parsley, and sometimes pork belly, tied into neat bundles with string, and braised for 8-12 hours at the gentlest possible simmer until the tripe is meltingly tender and the braising liquid has reduced to a concentrated, gelatinous sauce. The preparation begins the day before: clean and blanch the tripe pieces (the rumen and reticulum, cut into 10cm squares), prepare the stuffing (finely chopped cleaned tripe, diced ham or petit salé, minced garlic, chopped flat-leaf parsley, salt, pepper, and sometimes a splash of white wine), place a spoonful of stuffing on each tripe square, fold into a tight parcel, and tie with butcher's string. Arrange the tripoux in a single layer in a heavy earthenware pot, add a calf's foot (split for gelatin), aromatics (onion, carrot, bouquet garni), white wine, and just enough water to cover. Bring to the gentlest simmer and cook for 8-12 hours — traditionally overnight in a dying bread oven. The extended cooking transforms the rubbery tripe into something silky and unctuous, the stuffing melds into the wrapper, and the braising liquid becomes a dark, intensely flavored, gelatinous sauce. Tripoux are served in their cooking liquid with boiled potatoes or aligot, typically for Sunday lunch. The town of Aurillac holds an annual tripoux competition. Every charcutier in the Cantal sells their version in jars — a convenience product that, unusually, is nearly as good as homemade, since the long braising and jarring are essentially the same process.
Sheep's tripe squares stuffed with chopped tripe, ham, garlic, parsley. Tied in bundles with string. Braised 8-12 hours at gentlest simmer. Calf's foot for gelatin. White wine and aromatics. Serve in gelatinous cooking liquid. Overnight in dying bread oven traditionally.
The overnight bread-oven method is ideal: place the sealed pot in a baker's oven after the bread is done, leave until morning. Modern equivalent: 120°C in a conventional oven for 10-12 hours. The tripoux improve if cooled in their liquid and reheated the next day — the gelatin sets, the flavors deepen. In Aurillac and Saint-Flour, tripoux are the Saturday market breakfast: eaten hot from the pot at 7am with bread and red wine. The jarred versions from Maison Bras or Maison Couderc are excellent and keep for months.
Not blanching the tripe thoroughly (blanch 10 minutes, scrape clean, rinse). Cooking too fast (must barely simmer — bubbles should lazily break the surface every few seconds). Not cooking long enough (8 hours minimum — 12 is better). Skipping the calf's foot (the gelatin is essential to the sauce's body). Using too much liquid (the sauce should reduce to coat the tripoux). Discarding the cooking liquid (it IS the sauce).
Cuisine d'Auvergne — Régine Rossi-Lagorce; La Cuisine des Pays d'Oc