Browse Techniques

Fish stew from Pesaro on the Adriatic coast of Marche — one of Italy's most distinctive regional brodetti. The Pesarese version is characterised by its use of white wine vinegar (not wine) as the souring agent, and the inclusion of mantis shrimp (canocchie/cicale di mare), cuttlefish, and at least four or five different Adriatic fish. The base is a simple tomato and onion soffritto; the different fish are added in a precise sequence based on cooking time. The broth should be thin and clean — not thickened or pureed — with an assertive vinegar sharpness.

Hunter-style rabbit braise from Marche, built on a base of onion, garlic, rosemary, and white wine with the addition of local olives and capers — a sour-saline element that distinguishes the Marchigiana version from other regional cacciatore preparations. The rabbit is jointed, seasoned, and browned in olive oil, then braised with white wine, stock, and olives for 45–60 minutes until falling from the bone. The sauce reduces to a thick, glossy coating. Vinegar is added at the end to sharpen the finish — a detail specific to Marche that cuts through the rabbit's slight gaminess.

Layered flatbread from Urbino in the Marche — a rich, laminated flatbread made with lard, eggs, and black pepper, cooked on a hot flat stone (testo) or heavy pan. The dough is rolled thin, spread with lard and black pepper, folded and rolled repeatedly to create flaky layers, then cooked directly on a dry stone until blistered and slightly charred in spots. Crescia sfogliata is Easter food in the Urbino hills, served with salumi, boiled eggs, and the local ciauscolo sausage. The lard between the layers creates a structure similar to puff pastry but without butter, and the egg enrichment gives golden colour.

Fig jam tart from Marche using a buttery, crumbly pasta frolla (shortcrust) filled with handmade fig conserva from local black figs. The pasta frolla is enriched with lard (in addition to butter) for the specific crumbly, short texture traditional in Marchigiana pastry; the fig jam is made with whole figs or rough pieces, sugar, and lemon — not a smooth purée but a thick, textured jam where pieces of fig remain visible. The lattice top is the traditional finishing — strips of pasta frolla laid over the jam in a diagonal grid, pressed at the edges, and baked until golden.

Hare braised in a long salmì (salt brine and wine marinade then braise) from Marche — a classic game preparation that requires marinating the jointed hare for 24–48 hours in red wine, juniper, herbs, and vegetables before braising in the same marinade with added lard and olives. The 'salmì' is distinguished from a simple braise by the intensity of the marinade treatment: the hare absorbs the wine's tannic structure and the juniper's resin note deeply before cooking. Served with Marchigiana tagliatelle or polenta.

Mixed meat skewers from Marche — alternating pieces of pork, lamb, chicken liver, and Marchigiana sausage on long metal skewers, interspersed with bay leaves and sage, grilled over wood embers. The meat combinations vary but the alternation with bay leaves is the Marchigiana signature — the bay releases its oils as it heats, perfuming the adjacent meat. The skewers are cooked over moderate-heat embers (not direct flame) and turned frequently. Served with the bread that has been used to collect dripping fat — 'bruschetta del fuoco', the most prized part.

Vincisgrassi is Marche's version of lasagne — wide egg pasta sheets layered with a ragù of chicken livers and sweetbreads, béchamel, and Parmigiano — a 19th-century banquet dish named after the Austrian General Windisch-Graetz. The Acqualagna version (from the truffle capital of the Marche) adds shaved white truffle (Tuber magnatum, the same species as Alba's) over the finished vincisgrassi at service. The white truffle's intensity demands the dish be served immediately on hot plates — the first aroma when the truffle meets the heat of the pasta is the dining experience.