Browse Techniques

Piedmont's communal autumn dipping sauce — a fondue of olive oil, butter, garlic, and Sicilian salt-packed anchovies, kept warm at table in individual terracotta pots (fojòt) over a candle flame. Raw and cooked vegetables are dipped continuously throughout a long communal meal. The name means 'hot bath' and it is the defining ritual of Piedmontese autumn eating — a gathering of friends around the table for hours.

Alba's steak tartare — raw Fassona beef (Piedmont's lean indigenous breed), hand-chopped to a coarse mince, dressed with lemon juice, extra-virgin olive oil, salt, white pepper, and shavings of fresh Tartufo Bianco d'Alba (White Alba truffle) when in season. Nothing else. The Fassona is not the same as standard beef; it has less intramuscular fat, more protein, and a distinctive sweet, clean flavour that makes it the only appropriate beef for eating raw in this preparation. The truffle is not a garnish — it is co-equal with the beef.

Piedmont's unexpected braised lettuce preparation — whole hearts of romaine lettuce braised in butter with pancetta tesa, shallots, and white wine until completely wilted and caramelised. The transformation of raw lettuce (a salad ingredient) into a complex braised vegetable represents an ancient Italian culinary tradition that has largely disappeared. The lettuce's water evaporates completely during braising, concentrating its sugars into a caramelised sweetness that pairs with the pancetta's salt and smoke.

Piedmont's Sunday ravioli — a filling of braised beef, pork, and roasted vegetables combined with Parmigiano, eggs, and nutmeg, sealed inside thin egg pasta squares and dressed with the pan juices from the braised meat (sugo d'arrosto). The defining characteristic is the use of the braising liquid itself as the sauce — a liquid already containing all the Maillard and collagen compounds from the braise. This is why Piedmontese families braise meat on Saturday and make ravioli on Sunday: the sugo needs time to cool and concentrate.

Piedmont's most dramatic risotto — Carnaroli cooked in Barolo or Barbaresco red wine throughout (not just deglazed), producing a deep purple-red risotto, finished with Castelmagno DOP — one of Italy's oldest and rarest cheeses. The Castelmagno (produced only in the Cuneo municipality of the same name) has a complex, crumbly, pungent character from the natural blue-mould veining that develops in mountain cave ageing. Stirred into the purple risotto at the end, it melts into streaks of white-gold against the red wine base.