Pajeon

Pajeon (spring onion pancake) is Korea's crispy savoury pancake — a batter of flour, egg, and water studded with whole spring onions and cooked in a generous amount of sesame oil until both sides are golden and lace-crisp at the edges. Haemul pajeon (with seafood — shrimp, squid, and oysters) is the elevated version. The pancake should be thin enough to be crispy throughout, not thick and doughy. Served with a soy-vinegar dipping sauce.

Korea. Pajeon is pan-Korean — every region has a version. The Dongnae pajeon (from Busan) is considered the original and finest. Pajeon is the traditional pairing with makgeolli (milky rice wine) on rainy days — the sound of rain and the sizzle of pajeon in the pan are culturally associated in Korea.

Makgeolli (milky rice wine) — the canonical pajeon pairing in Korean culture. The traditional saying is that the sound of rain makes you crave pajeon and makgeolli. The dipping sauce: soy sauce, rice vinegar, sesame oil, gochugaru, and minced garlic.

{"Thin batter: a mix of all-purpose flour and rice flour (for extra crispiness), egg, and ice-cold water. The batter should be thinner than crepe batter — it spreads naturally in the pan","Ice-cold water: the temperature difference between batter and hot oil creates the crispiness. Warm batter produces a soft pancake","Spring onions: whole, trimmed to pan length, placed parallel across the oiled pan before the batter is poured over them","Generous sesame or vegetable oil: enough oil that the pancake is shallow-frying, not dry-cooking. The crispy lace edge requires this oil","High heat: the batter should sizzle immediately on contact with the oil. Cook 3-4 minutes per side without moving","The flip: when the bottom is set and golden, flip in one confident motion. A plate can be used as an aid"}