Andouille

Louisiana andouille (*ahn-DOO-ee*) has almost nothing in common with French andouille (a tripe sausage from Normandy and Brittany). The name traveled from France to Acadian Canada to Louisiana, and the product changed completely along the way. Louisiana andouille is a coarse-ground smoked pork sausage, heavily seasoned with garlic, black pepper, cayenne, and thyme, cold-smoked over pecan wood (or sugarcane) for hours until deeply darkened and intensely aromatic. It is the sausage of gumbo, jambalaya, and red beans — the smoked pork backbone of Louisiana cooking. LaPlace, Louisiana — a small town on the Mississippi between New Orleans and Baton Rouge — is the andouille capital, and the competition between LaPlace producers (Jacob's, Bailey's, Wayne Jacob's Smokehouse) is fierce and generational.

A thick, coarse-ground pork sausage with visible chunks of meat and fat, a deep mahogany exterior from extended smoking, and a flavour that hits garlic, smoke, black pepper, and cayenne in sequence. The texture should be firm and coarse — nothing like the fine-grained, emulsified texture of a commercial frankfurter or kielbasa. When sliced, the interior should show distinct pieces of pork and fat against the darker, seasoned matrix. The smoke should be deep enough that the sausage can perfume an entire pot of gumbo or red beans from a few diced rounds.

Andouille is a seasoning sausage — it goes into dishes to build smoke and heat from within. In gumbo, it provides the smoked pork thread alongside chicken or seafood. In jambalaya, it provides the smoke that defines the Cajun version. In red beans, it provides the heat alongside the ham hock's body. Andouille is also excellent grilled and eaten as a sausage — on a po'boy with Creole mustard, or alongside grilled chicken with potato salad.