Mirliton

Mirliton (*MEL-ih-tawn*) — known elsewhere as chayote, christophene, cho-cho, or vegetable pear — is a mild, pale green squash that grows on vigorous vines in the yards and fences of New Orleans. The plant is so prolific that a single vine can produce dozens of fruit, and the tradition of sharing mirlitons with neighbours is a New Orleans domestic ritual. The vegetable arrived in Louisiana through the Caribbean (probably via the French West Indies) and is ultimately of Mesoamerican origin — the Aztecs cultivated it. In New Orleans, mirliton is almost always stuffed — halved, seeded, scooped, and filled with a shrimp-and-breadcrumb mixture — and baked. The stuffed mirliton is the Creole home cook's autumn dish, appearing on tables from September through November when the vines are producing.

Mirliton halved lengthwise, the seed removed, the flesh parboiled or steamed until tender, then scooped out and combined with sautéed shrimp, the trinity, breadcrumbs, and Cajun seasoning. The mixture is mounded back into the mirliton shells and baked until the breadcrumb topping is golden and the filling is hot throughout. The mirliton itself has a very mild flavour — somewhere between zucchini and a watery pear — and acts primarily as a vessel and textural contributor. The shrimp and seasoning provide the flavour; the mirliton provides the form.

Stuffed mirliton is a side dish or a light main course. It pairs with anything that wants a mild, creamy accompaniment: roast chicken, grilled fish, pork chops. The mild mirliton and the seasoned shrimp filling don't compete with a main course — they complement it. Hot sauce on the table.