Kansas City Sauce

Kansas City barbecue sauce — thick, sweet, tomato-and-molasses-based, designed to coat and glaze — is the barbecue sauce that the rest of the world thinks of when it hears "BBQ sauce." It is the standard against which all other regional sauces are defined (usually by their departure from it). The tradition was founded by Henry Perry — a Black man from Memphis who opened Kansas City's first barbecue stand in 1908 in a trolley barn on 19th and Highland, smoking meat over hickory and oak in a pit built from an old oven. Perry is the father of Kansas City barbecue. Arthur Bryant — who worked for Perry and took over the restaurant — and the Gates family (Gates Bar-B-Q, since 1946) established the sauce tradition that now defines the city. Kansas City's sauce is the sweetest, thickest, and most assertive in American BBQ.

A thick, dark reddish-brown sauce: tomato (ketchup or tomato paste as the base), molasses or brown sugar (substantial sweetness), vinegar (for balance), Worcestershire, onion, garlic, liquid smoke (in some commercial versions), and spices (black pepper, cayenne, paprika, celery salt). The sauce should be thick enough to coat a spoon and cling to ribs, sweet enough that the sugar caramelises under heat, and complex enough that the sweetness doesn't overwhelm — the vinegar, the Worcestershire, and the pepper should all be detectable beneath the molasses.

On ribs (the glaze), on burnt ends, on pulled pork sandwiches, on brisket. Alongside: French fries, coleslaw, baked beans (KC beans are often made with the BBQ sauce), white bread. Cold beer.