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Fujian: The Tea-and-Seafood Coast

‹ The Canonical Dishes

I

Origin

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II

Description

Fujian Province on China's southeast coast produced the world's most celebrated teas (Da Hong Pao, Tie Guan Yin, Silver Needle, Lapsang Souchong) and developed a seafood cuisine of extraordinary delicacy. Fujianese cooking emphasises umami above all other flavours — through the use of seafood, fermented fish sauces, dried shrimp, and mushrooms. The "red rice wine lees" (紅糟, hóng zāo) — a fermented rice paste — is the signature flavouring of Fujian, giving dishes a distinctive pink-red colour and a sweet, wine-like depth. Fujianese immigrants carried their food traditions to Taiwan (where Fujianese cuisine is the base of Taiwanese food), Southeast Asia (hokkien mee, popiah, bak kut teh), and worldwide.

III

The Thread

—Taiwanese cuisine (the direct descendant), Hokkien-influenced Southeast Asian cooking (Singapore, Malaysia, Philippines — hokkien mee, laksa origins), Japanese dashi tradition (both cultures built cui
IV

Flavour Context

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