Hakka: The Wandering People's Food
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Origin
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Description
The Hakka (客家, kèjiā — literally "guest families") are a Han Chinese subgroup who migrated south over centuries, from the Yellow River plain to Guangdong, Fujian, Jiangxi, and eventually to Taiwan, Southeast Asia, and the world. Their cuisine reflects their history of displacement: hearty, preserved, portable, and resourceful. Hakka food uses every part of the animal, preserves aggressively (salt-baked, pickled, dried), and favours simple preparations that travel well. It is the cuisine of people who never knew when they would have to move again.
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The Thread
—Jewish Ashkenazi cooking (another diaspora cuisine — preserved, portable, resourceful, shaped by displacement), Hakka food in Southeast Asia (Malaysia, Singapore, Indonesia — the Hakka diaspora create
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Flavour Context
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