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Shanghai Drunken Hairy Crab (Zui Xie) — Rice Wine Preservation

Shanghai

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I

Origin

Shanghai — autumn seasonal specialty

II

Description

Zui xie (醉蟹) — drunken crab — is a Shanghai autumn luxury: live hairy crabs are marinated in a brine of Shaoxing rice wine, soy, sugar, and aromatics for 24–48 hours, killing them through the alcohol while preserving the roe and fat in a semi-raw state. The alcohol cooks the proteins minimally while the brine seasons deeply. One of the most sought-after autumn dishes.

III

The Thread

—Korean ganjang gejang — soy-marinated raw crab
—Scandinavian gravlax — alcohol-and-salt preservation
—Japanese ikejime fish — freshness preservation philosophy
IV

Flavour Context

Intensely sweet crab; wine-aromatic marinade; slightly sweet-salty brine; roe rich and concentrated

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